2008 Donnhoff Oberhauser Brucke Riesling Eiswein

A medium intensity lemon colour icewine with over medium intensity aromas of honey, chrysanthemum tea, apricot, citrus, steel and mineral. Sweet with fairly high acidity, full bodied but rather low in alcohol. On palate it has quite high intensity flvours of honey, lemon candy, apricot and touch of chrysanthemum. Fairly long length with honey citrus finish. (95) Very concentrated but a bit lack of complexity, need to develop further.


Tasted on 8 December 2015


相信可以遲D飲的酒，酒的濃度很高，甜酸的平衡很好，即使咁甜也不覺得膩。酒香、酒味和餘韻都算強。亦有一定的礦物質感，只是複雜性現在欠缺了點，相信時間會令它再有好的發展。現飲已不錯，但再陳年應該會得到更好的品飲享受。

1996 La Tache, Domaine de la Romanee Conti

Deep ruby coloured dry red wine with fairly high intensity aromas of red plum, redberry, rose jam, licorice, forest floor, fresh cabbage and damp wood. It has medium acidity and alcohol, fuller than medium bodied with medium fine-grained tannin. On palate it has quite high intensity flavours of rose jam, red plum, licorice, forest floor, and cabbage. Long length with rose and plum finish. (95) Clean, precise, fine and delicate.


Tasted on 8 December 2015


也不致於筆墨難以形容，但這酒會令人有嘩一聲的感覺。酒香和酒味的強度和複雜性也很好，單寧須要多一點時間醇化一下，餘韻長而吸引。味道層次分明，亦優雅，是一個很享受的品飲過程。好好酒，值得一再回味。

2002 Ermitage L'Ermite, M. Chapoutier

Medium lemon colour with quite high intensity aromas of lemon, white flower, honey, peach and touch of stewed pear and mineral. It is dry with medium acidity, medium alcohol and quite full bodied. On palate it gives medium intensity lemon candy, peach, white flower and touch of honey almond. Longer than medium length with honey lemon finish. (92) Good complexity but a bit lack of acid.


Tasted on 8 December 2015


隆河的白酒有像較醇厚的感覺，但同時又很易欠缺鮮活性，因為酒的酸度好易不足。這酒的酸度勉強可以，複雜性不錯，酒香的強度不俗，只是在口中不能維持，餘韻亦長，幾好飲。

1988 Richebourg, Domaine Leroy

This wine still has deep ruby colour. On nose it has fairly high intensity aromas of red plum, rose tea, licorice, redberry, floral garden, fruit plate with touch of toast and earth. It is dry with medium acidity, medium alcohol and bodied. The tannin is at medium level and fine-grained in nature. On palate, it has slightly over medium intensity flavours of plum, redberry, licorice, floral and touch of earth and spice. Fairly long length with rose and plum lingering finish. (93)


Tasted on 8 December 2015


如果不是餘韻咁誘人，我會比少一分。酒有著引人入勝的香氣，是會令人腦海中有畫面的，酒在口中雖然仍有一定表現，但不及香氣，層次及複雜性亦差了點，但吞嚥後的餘韻隱隱約約的，令人回味，好飲，即使27年酒，仍保持著這優雅的花果味，十分難得。

2006 Chevalier Montrachet, Bouchard Pere & Fils

A medium lemon intensity dry white wine with medium intensity aromas of honey, lemon, steel, almond, floral and touch of chalk and mineral. Slightly higher than medium acidity, medium alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. On palate, it has over medium intensity flavours of honey, lemon, mineral, floral and touch of nuttiness. Fairly long length with honey citrus finish. (92)


Tasted on 8 December 2015


如果唔係酒香少了些強度，這酒的評價會更好。酒的複雜度好，亦有一定層次，餘韻長而可口，礦物質感亦強，反映出酒有一定的質素。飲比聞好得多，很工整四正，好酒一枝。

寫酒的二三事（二）凌凌漆說：「睇落係風筒，其實係鬚刨嚟。」

二 . 凌凌漆說：「睇落係風筒，其實係鬚刨嚟。」

這個情況其實在現今社會比比皆是。因工作關係，我參考過很多法庭案例。我發現有很多訴訟其實在一開始時已决定了輸赢。主要原因是負方的案情本身已經前言不對後語，即使在不考慮另一方案情的情况下，負方的案情已站不住腳。

這個情况在社會上也不時出現。不受歡迎的政客很多時不是他的政治立場不受歡迎，而是他們的論述及言行不一致，一時一樣，跟電影「大內密探凌凌發」中無相王的武功一樣，「好難捉摸呀。」

其實只要一個人的論述或案情由始至終都一致的話，即使對方唔同意，也會明白他的觀點。這個在寫酒或談酒時很重要。相信很多人都認同酒是很個人的，所以很多時有關酒的同一課題大家會有不同睇法，這個是完全可以接受的。可是如果一篇關於酒的文字前後矛盾或表述不一致時，讀者便較難明了。

文章的不一致性有時是顯而易見的，但有時也須要對酒有一些認識，所以又回歸到上一篇所説：「基礎是很重要。」

以下是一段節錄自WSET考試報告的品酒筆記：

Ripe plum, prune and dark cherry, hints of pepper and vegetal notes, jammy and boiled sweets, hint of vanilla. A developing wine, simple.

大家覺得有冇問題呢？請思考一下再看下去。

另一個例子，這段對話我是節錄自一條兩、三年前的網上短片：

主持人：大家好，今集仍然有我同威士忌大師呀乜哥同大家品嚐威士忌。

乜哥：大家好。

主持人：乜哥，今集我地終於試一試名滿天下嘅麥卡倫了。

乜哥：冇錯，我地而家面前放了好幾款麥卡倫的威士忌。

主持人：其實麥卡倫有乜野咁特别而咁出名呢？乜哥！

乜哥：講起麥卡倫呢，佢地就有六大支柱，而令到 D 酒特别好。

主持人：乜哥，睇落而家面前呢幾款酒，都好深色下喎！其實呢 D 酒有冇加色呢？

乜哥：係有加色嘅！

主持人：咁我地一路試，一路講解吖！

呢段大家又覺得有冇問題呢？

如果一枝酒已經有幾個層面的味道，那支仍是一支簡單的（Simple）酒嗎？至於那段短片，我建議大家先上麥卡倫的網站看看，我相信看完之后你已經達到或甚至高過「威士忌大師」的級別了。

下一節我會轉入另一個話題，一個解釋爲甚麼有些文章我們應該作出懷疑，甚至批評，有些又不須要。

2003 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Pucelles, Domaine Leflaive

This dry white wine has medium intensity lemon green colour. On nose it gives quite high intensity aromas of lemon, white flower, honey, peach and touch of mineral, stewed pear and almond. It is dry with barely medium acidity, medium alcohol and quite full bodied. Medium plus intensity flavours of lemon candy, peach, white flower and touch of honey almond. Fairly long length with lemon honey finish. (92) Good complexity but a bit lack of acidity.


Tasted on 8 December 2015


酒的複雜性好，酒力亦算強，餘韻亦長，幾好飲。可是酸度似乎欠了點點，可能是年份問題吧，這導致酒的鮮活性下跌了些。整體都仍是一枝好酒。

2004 Dom Perignon

A medium lemon coloured dry champagne with over medium noses of ripe pear, peach, white flower and touch of cream soda and yeast. Medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with creamy mousse. The flavour intensity is over medium with flavours of green apple, bitter lemon, pear and mineral. Longer than medium length with bitter lemon finish. (91)


Tasted on 8 December 2015


04年的香檳可以飲。這酒以 Dom Perignon 來說算不錯，但不算出色。酒香複雜性差了點，酒力尚算強，餘韻不錯，中上的酒。

Krug Rose NV

Medium onion skin with fairly high intensity aromas of yeast, lime, fresh red apple, chalk and touch of honey bread. It is dry with medium soft acidity, medium alcohol and slightly fuller than medium bodied. Creamy mousse too. On palate it has over medium intensity flavours of red apple, strawberry, honey, chalk and bread. Slightly longer than medium length with red apple finish. (92) not too oaky with good mellow acidity.


Tasted on 8 December 2015

酒入口後把口腔包得豐豐滿滿的。口感綿綿。二次發酵的感覺不太重，酒力及複雜性不俗，餘韻亦長，好飲。

2015 Beaujolais Village Nouveau

A deep purple dry red wine with fairly high intensity aromas of fresh ripe red cherry, candied redberry, red flower, redcurrant, bubblegum, very fruity. It has slightly higher than medium acidity, medium alcohol and barely medium bodied. Soft tannin at barely medium level. On palate it gives quite high intensity flavours of red cherry, ripe redberry and touch of bubblegum. Medium length with red cherry candy finish (89) Fruity and powerful, but simple and lack of length, good gulpable wine.

Tasted on 21 November 2015


知道2015年是一個很熱的年份，所以已預計了酒的果味較漿。這酒酒香很強，只是不能持續至口中。餘韻亦較短，複雜性亦欠奉。一枝標準做來大啖大啖"啪"的酒。雖然好似彈得好多，但這只是一貫保祖利風格。要讚的是果味十足，好像滿口花果莓的感覺，亦感覺到果味的熟透情度。酒不是優雅的美，但飲者會因其豐富的果味而飲得很開心的。

1998 La Rioja Alta Gran Reserva

Fairly deep ruby coloured with medium noses of red berry, vanilla, red plum, coconut, redcurrant and touch of spice, this dry red wine has medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. The tannin is a bit coarse but still fine-grained, quite high intensity too. On palate it has medium flavours of red cherry, vanilla, red plum and touch of fishy and sweet spice. Medium red cherry finish. (90)


Tasted on 16 November 2015


酒的果味保持得很好，木桶味也很融和。酒香及酒味強度算不錯，餘韻亦算合格。酒的複雜性欠了點，但展示到一點點品種特性，很不錯的一款佐餐酒，剩飲的話也是很輕鬆隨意的。

寫酒的二三事（一）安西教練說：「基礎很重要。」

現在市場上，不論印刷媒體或網上媒體，都不時有一些關於酒的文章、短片和筆記。這反映出酒友越來越多和有更多人喜歡分享他們對酒的感受，實屬可喜的現象。但是我在看這些東西時有幾點是覺得要注意的，在此分享一下。

一． 安西教練說：「基礎很重要。」

這個想法來自早前網上一則新聞。一位家長氣憤的貼上他子女的數學試卷。内容的題目如下：

Use the repeated addition strategy to solve 5 x 3.

他的子女答：5 x 3 = 5 + 5 + 5 = 15

老師改卷後扣了他1分，並列出正確答案爲：3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 15

那位家長認爲答案都是 15，那應該全對而不應該扣掉1分。

如果從乘數的英文定義來說，5 x 3 即是 5 個 3 相加的意思，所以 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 + 3 = 15 是正確解答。可是在數學運算時，乘數有一個交換性質（Commutative property），亦即是 A x B ＝ B x A，所以在運算方面 5 x 3 ＝ 3 x 5。因此這位家長便認為他的子女並沒有任何錯誤，原因如下：

5 x 3 ＝ 3 x 5 （Commutative）
3 x 5 ＝  5 + 5 + 5 = 15

嚴謹的說，我認為這裡涉及一個概念上的問題。正如我在上面所說，交換性質在運算時才可應用。但實際上會有所不同，例如：3 箱酒，每箱有 5 枝，共 15 枝；這和 5 箱酒，每箱有 3 支不同。所以在運算上沒有分別的東西並不代表實際上是一樣。英語上有兩個字正好解釋這情況，就是 Equal 和 Equivalent 了。5 x 3 等於（Equal）5 + 5 +5，但不是相同（Equivalent ）。我相信有時由於運算十分簡單，我們會把一些步驟省略了，這很容易令自己忘記了一些很根本的分別，而把這些概念混淆了。

這和酒有什麼關係呢？在評酒或在一些關於酒的文章上，很多坊間的作者也時常會誤把一些 Equal 的東西當成 Equivalent 。這情況屢見不爽，特別在一些對酒一知半解的人尤甚。舉例說，有些酒的香味、特性可以是由品種或釀造方法而來，但並不代表某一款酒有某一種香味便代表是某一品種或釀造方法。這種關係是一個推斷關係（Implication）而不是相同關係（Equivalent ）。

我常常替一些要考盲飲（Blind Tasting）的人安排試酒練習。其中一條我常用來「陰」他們的題目就是 Carbonic Maceration。使用這個技術較出名的其中一處地方是 Beaujolais ，但是這個技術其實也在很多地方用作釀造一些可以早飮用的酒。這種技術造出來的酒一般有著顯注的糖果、香口膠和生香蕉的香氣，很多人（包括所謂學過和自稱專業的）當聞到這香氣便說是 Beaujolais ，因為他們已經把這些香氣和 Beaujolais 這款酒劃上了等號，所以結果通常都是被我「陰」到的。

這跟上面說到的原理一樣，很多時盲飲是一種推斷，但是很多人卻把他當成了一種直接掛鉤的相同關係。所以，品飲者須先弄清楚葡萄品種特性、泥土、氣候和各樣對造酒有時影響的因素才可以有較全面的判斷。

這些很老生常談，對嗎？

但為什麼在坊間仍有那麼多有問題的酒評或文章？下一節會說另一個話題。

2005 Chambolle Musigny Vieilles Vignes, Vincent Girardin

A deep ruby wine with fairly high intensity aromas of red plum, rose perfume, red cherry jam and touch of wormwood, incense and forest floor. It is dry with medium acidity, medium alcohol and bodied with fine grained medium tannin. Slightly higher than medium flavours of red cherry, cabbage, wet leaves and rose pedal. The length is at longer than medium level with plummy finish. (92)


Tasted on 16 November 2015


這酒頗濃，香氣很好，強而複雜，十分誘人。酒在口中仍算保持著水準，亦有著品種特性，只是以這村來說就像欠了點點田土風味。餘韻亦長，好飲的。

2004 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques, Domaine Denis Mortet

A medium ruby coloured dry red wine with quite high noses of red plum jam, earth, mushroom, cooked cabbage, rose and touch of toast. Medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with soft medium tannin, a bit greenness is detected. The flavours contain red cherry, redcurrant, rose pedal, smoke and vanilla. Barely longer than medium length with red cherry finish. (91)


Tasted on 16 November 2015


04年的酒大部份都有這點點的青澀感，即使濃郁如這酒莊的差品亦是。酒香不俗，強亦複雜，酒在口中複雜性不及香味，餘韻不錯，幾好飲。

1969 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Biondi Santi

This dry red wine has deep ruby colour. On nose it gives higher than medium intensity aromas of prune, caramel, raisin, black tea and damp wood. Fairly high acidity, medium bodied with barely medium alcohol. Medium fine grained tannin too. On palate it has slightly higher than medium flavours of stewed red cherry, caramel, British tea, damp wood. Fairly long length with sour cherry finish. (90)



Tasted on 16 November 2015


有相逄恨晚的感覺，這酒如果早幾年飲應該很不錯。酒已走下坡了，有著氧化的味道，酒的酸度亦已有點醋化，酒味複雜性失去不少，酒精感亦下降。但我仍比一個不俗的評價。原因有三: 一)酒主說這酒有點輕微滲漏，所以相信在正常狀態下會比這支好; 二)酒的餘韻及強度顯示了這酒的質素; 三)四十多年的酒在輕微滲漏下的老化情度也只是如此，足証這酒有很強的生命力。酒仍有品種特性，香氣仍吸引，只是酒在口中表現平淡鬆散了。正常的狀態應該會好飲的。

酒鬼的讀書報告 (7) - The Finest Wines of Burgundy

書名: The Finest Wines of Burgundy

編者: Bill Nanson

版本: 2012年 


書籍簡介: 


全書 320 頁，包括頭 5 頁 的 CONTENTS 及 PREFACE 和尾 3 頁的 Index。 內文方面，全書分開了幾個部份。分別為：

1. Introduction：這一部分共分七個章節：第一章介绍了金丘區(Côte d'Or)的地理；第二章談了一些關於布根地的歴史；第三章簡單的解釋了這個法定產區(Appellation)的階梯及級別；第四章是關於布根地主要種植的葡萄品種-黑皮諾和莎當妮；第五章說的是葡萄的種植；之后的第六章便是釀酒法；最后的第七章是說一些品飲時的事項，包括品飲時間、氧化及一些年份特性介绍；

2. The Finest Producers and Their Wines：這部份只有兩個章節，但卻是這書最大篇幅的部分，共佔約270頁。每一個章節介绍了金丘區的一個部分，先是夜丘區(Côte de Nuits)，跟着的是布恩丘(Côte de Beaune)。每一章也是從北至南介绍區內的各條村莊，之后的篇幅是一系列的酒莊介紹，每個酒莊都有一些背景介紹，包括聯絡地址電話，另外作者也有一些他認爲的酒莊出色酒品。

3. Appreciating the Wines：這部分只有一個章節，共2頁。這章推介了作者認爲布根地最好的一百。這處共分十個條目，每個條目推介十項。條目包括：夜丘特級酒、夜丘一級酒、夜丘村酒、布恩丘特級酒、布恩丘一級酒、布恩丘村酒、最佳酒莊、最佳釀造者、最佳價值酒和最佳懂得英語的酒莊探訪。

4. Glossary：只有一頁多的部分，是介紹書中出現過的術語；

 之後到附錄 Bibliography，由第 317 頁開始，Index 則由第 338 頁開始。


讀後感: 

本書的安排很尚算簡潔工整，只是覆蓋面較少，只有金丘區的介紹。

酒莊介紹方面，大多數都有酒莊負責人的彩色照片 ，此外每篇會介紹酒莊葡萄園的位置及大小，亦有一些歷史或釀造特色介紹，頗精單。介紹後部份還會列出酒莊的聯絡資料，更有一一欄介紹作者認為該酒莊出名的酒品。

酒莊介紹方面雖然不少，差不多包括了所有名莊，但一些在行業有一定份量的老牌酒莊卻欠缺了，例如: HENRI GOUGES。在介紹酒莊特色酒款方面，我相信很多酒莊會對作者的介紹有異議，不論是在酒莊介紹部份或最後的所謂最好100。

總的來說，這書是一本像黃頁的酒莊介紹書。一些對布垠地有初步認識者看的話會有多一些認識，資深酒友看此書會有多一點的酒莊資料，但可能會略嫌簡單，是一本可以一看的酒書。

1999 Richebourg, Christian Remoissenet

Deep ruby colour with quite strong noses of red plum jam, mint tea, vanilla, rose jam and touch of stewed cabbage and earth, it is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and soft ripe tannin. Quite full bodied with fairly high intensity flavours of rose, red plum, strawberry, red cherry jam, vanilla, licorice and toast. Fairly long length with red plum jam finish. (93) Quite jammy, need good serving.



Tasted on 13 November 2015

已是第三次飲這酒了。發覺這酒的透氣時間是一個關鍵。今次只透了一個小時左右，酒香強勁複雜，餘韻亦長，單寧順滑成熟。再透氣多一點後表現更好，但要注意，這酒開瓶約四小時後開始下跌，所以要好好掌握品飲時間。好飲的，只恨我得返最後一枝.....

2010 Ch. Malartic Lagraviere Blanc

This dry wine has medium intensity lemon green colour. On nose it gives quite high intensity aromas of guava, honeysuckle, white flower, vanilla, toast and touch of honeydew. Slightly higher than medium acidity, medium alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. On palate it has slightly higher than medium intensity flavours of lemon, honeysuckle, vanilla, grass and touch of pear. Close to long length with lemon guava fruity finish. (93)



Tasted on 15 November 2015


這波爾多白酒的質量不差於那些五大的白酒。強勁複雜的香氣，亦充分展示出產地和品種的特色，餘韻長而吸引，令人回味。酒味在口中複雜性少了點點，但已經好好飲了。現在飲酸度多了點點，但佐餐的話是完美的，否則可以陳多幾年。愛鮮爽的朋友已可開始飲了。又一物值非凡之選。

2004 Bollinger La Grande Annee

Medium lemon green colour with close to pronounced level intensity aromas of ripe red apple, yeast, honey toast, peach jam and touch of chalk. It is dry with slightly over medium soft acidity, medium alcohol and quite full bodied. Fine bubbles and creamy mousse. Quite high flavour intensity with flavours of lemon, apple pie, yeast, together with touch of chalk and vanilla. Fairly long length with lemon candy finish. (93)


Tasted on 13 November 2015


2004年的香檳好啱飲，仲好飲添。酒香強勁複雜， 果味與二次發酵的香氣共冶一爐，口感豐厚又不會膩，餘韻頗長。酒味在口中也有一定強烈，只是複雜性不及酒香那麼好。性價比很高的一款酒。酒仍可發展，但較喜歡果感的朋友現在飲已經很好了。喜愛多一點老酒特性的朋友可能須要陳多些時間。

2004 Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou

Deep purple colour with fairly high intensity noses of blackcurrant, vegetal, black plum, toast, violet and touch of earth and mint. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Quit full bodied with  medium fine grained tannin, touch of greenness is detected. The flavours, at slightly higher than medium intensity, contain black plum, blackcurrant, black berry, licorice, earth and touch of smoke. Medium length with black plum finish. (91)



Tasted on 3 November 2015

酒香複雜性很好，足証這酒莊的水準穩定。酒力算強，酒味在口中果感十足，只是餘韻比較短了些，單寧有丁點青但影響不大 。整體來說是一枝可口的酒。誰說道姑是木桶水??

2008 Clos Vougeot, Olivier Bernstein

A deep ruby colour dry red wine with fairly high intensity aromas of red plum, cabbage, toast, earth, sweet spice and rose jam. It has medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with medium soft tannin. The flavour intensity is at higher than medium with flavours of rose pedal, red plum, redberry and touch of tea and licorice. Slightly longer than medium length with red plum finish. (92)


Tasted on 3 November 2015

 頗濃郁的一款酒。全程都表現出高於平均的酒香和酒味，餘韻亦算長。酒香複雜性比酒味好，單寧很柔，值得一讚，好飲的，但這酒須要多一點透氣時間。

2000 Puligny Montrachet 1er Champs Canet, Domaine Ramonet

This dry white wine has medium intensity lemon colour. On nose it gives higher than medium aromas of stewed lemon, honey, hay and chamomile, sign of tiredness detected. It has medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. On palate it has slightly higher than medium intensity flavours of honey, lemon, stewed apple and touch of hay and grassy. Longer than medium length with lemon tea finish. (90)



Tasted on 3 November 2015

有點老態的感覺。酒已發展出一些成 熟的氣味，酒的力度及複雜性也算中上，餘韻亦算長，有的話應該要飲了。此酒莊一級田以下的酒跟他們的特級莊在質素上分別很大，這亦可能在價錢上反映了出來。

2005 Meursualt 1er Les Poruzots, Domaine Henri Boillot

Medium lemon colour with higher than medium intensity aromas of lemon, Yakult, cream and touch of honey, quite fruity. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Slightly fuller than medium bodied with over medium intensity flavours of lemon, cream, grapefruit and touch of vanilla. Longer than medium length with lemony finish. (92)


Tasted on 3 November 2015


早飲了的酒，果感十足的。酒香及酒味都較強，亦有梅索村的特色。複雜性仍待發展，餘韻算長，幾好飲。2005年不愧係一個靚年。

1998 Ch. Haut Brion

Deep purple coloured dry red wine with barely pronounced intensity aromas of blackcurrant, warm brick, black berry, sweet licorice and touch of mint and plum. Medium acidity and alcohol with quite full bodied and medium soft ripe tannin. On palate it gives slightly over medium intensity flavours of blackcurrant, blackberry, licorice, plum and some dusty and earthy notes. Longer than medium length with blackberry finish. (93)


Tasted on 31 October 2015

以奧比安來說這枝算合格有餘。酒香及酒味也有著地區風格，酒力強度不錯，特別是香氣，複雜性在口中單調了一點點。好飲的，保持著酒莊的水準，但不會有驚喜。

(抱歉: 由於些酒是在某一大形埸合斟來給我的，所以我拍不到照。)

Remy Martin Louis XIII (70s)

This Cognac has medium intensity amber colour. On nose it has quite high intensity aromas of raisin, apricot, caramel, jasmine and hints of citrus peel and chalk. Water brings out sweet spice notes. Some sweet tinge and medium well integrated smooth alcohol. Medium acidity and quite full bodied. On palate it gives fairly high intensity flavours of raisin, apricot, caramel, honey and touch of chalk and orange peel. Close to long length with raisin fruity finish. (94)



Tasted on 24 October 2015

七十年代的路易十三在飲之前有點擔心酒會太老。聞酒香時這份擔心已一掃而空。酒除了展示了它十足的陳年感外，仍有著一定的花果香氣和大香檳區的特性。酒味醇厚，香氣足，口感豐富而又柔順，餘韻長，隱隱約約的。但亦說回來，我相信如果我早幾年飲，我會比更高的評價。以酒的發展來說我相信這酒剛剛過了高峰，所以現在好飲了。或者現在可以試試八十年代的就會更清楚。

2011 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay

This wine has medium intensity lemon colour. On nose it has medium intensity toast, lemon, roasted nuts, peach and oak. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol, quite full bodied with over medium flavour intensity. The flavours contain toasted nuts, lemon, floral and touch of peach. Medium length with lemon and nutty finish. (91)



Tasted on 16 October 2015


清晰的酒味，不俗的 強度，濃烈的新世界風格，這酒果感及木桶的平衡很好。入吸豐豐滿滿的，幾好飲。複雜度欠了些，但以佐餐來說很不錯。

2011 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon, Domaine Leflaive

A medium lemon green coloured dry white wine with fairly high intensity aromas of lemon. amber, almond, white flower, oak and touch of peach. It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. On palate it gives slightly higher than medium intensity flavours of lemon juice, floral, bitter almond and touch of honey. Medium length. (90)



Tasted on 16 October 2015


這酒莊的酒我一直都十分喜愛，但今次有點點失望。希望時間可以幫助一下。酒的強度算不錯了，酒味的複雜性仍在發展，特別是在口中的表現，似乎要多一點時間，餘韻只是勉強合格，雖然今次是開來測試水平，但也有點點期望的，難道我期望過高? 或者一兩年後再試會更好。

Champagne Le Mesnil Blanc de Blanc Grand Cru NV

This champagne has medium intensity lemon green colour and creamy mousse. On nose it has fairly high intensity aromas of green apple, lime, chalk and touch of caramel and honey. It is dry with quite high and sharp acidity, medium alcohol and bodied. The flavour intensity is at medium level with flavours of apple, steel, lime and chalk. Fairly long length with apple and chalk finish. (90) Good nose, a bit lack of complexity.


Tasted on 16 October 2015

酒的香氣很好，亦充份反映出田土特性，酒屬於清清爽爽的，餐前飲用很不錯。複雜性頗一致，但較為簡單了點，酒力在口中亦弱了點，餘韻不錯，可口的。

2001 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Le Chiuse

Deep ruby colour with fairly high intensity aromas of red cherry, breakfast tea, licorice, strawberry jam and touch of mint and earth. It is dry with medium sour acidity, medium alcohol and bodied with fair high fine grained tannin. On palate it gives slightly over medium flavours of wild red cherry, tea leaves, licorice and damp wood. Longer than medium length with red cherry finish. (92) Typical and rich.



Tasted on 12 September 2015


這個地方的酒很少令失望的，這支亦是枝高於水平之作。像是教科書一樣的有著品種標誌性的酒香及酒味。酒力及複雜性也不錯，餘韻亦長，好飲。單寧仍重一 點，陳年多些應該會好一些。

Hibiki Suntory Whisky 30 years old 三十年響威士忌

A medium intensity copper coloured whisky with pronounced level of raisin, orange peel, jasmine, honey, apricot and touch of vanilla and incense. Water brings out floral notes but dilutes the other aromas. It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and quite full bodied. Medium well integrated alcohol with touch of wood tannin. On palate it has slightly over medium intensity flavours of citrus, sherry, honey, jasmine. Close to long length with orange peel fhinish. (93)


Tasted on 29 August 2015


似乎混合得很不錯，亦有日本威士忌的一點特色。酒的陳年感足，酒香強而複雜，餘韻又長，好酒。要彈的是酒在口中的複雜性低了點，但已經很不錯了。

1976 Glen Albyn Single Highland Malt Whisky

This whisky has medium intensity lemon colour. On nose it has pronounced level aromas of citrus, honey, apricot, peat, smoke and touch of sweet spice. Water brings out some floral notes. It is dry with medium acidity, medium integrated alcohol and medium bodied. It also has quite high intensity flavours of honey, lemon, peat, smoke and touch of tropical fruit and peach. Fairly long length with honey lemon finish. (93)


Tasted on 29 August 2015


帶著較重的果味，三十八年的酒仍有這樣的味証明酒底不錯，木桶的影響不是太重。落點點水會更香。強度高，亦複雜，餘韻亦長，一枝好酒，只是陳年感欠了點點，但已經好好味了。

2001 Romanee Saint Vivant, Nicolas Potel

This dry red wine possesses quite deep ruby colour. On nose it has quite high intensity aromas of red berry, rose pedal, earth, cabbage and touch of rain forest and pine. Medium acidity, alcohol and bodied, with medium soft tannin, tho a touch of greenness is detected. The flavour intensity is slightly over medium level with flavours of red cherry, rose pedal, earth, licorice and pine wood. Medium length with wild red cherry and vegetal notes. (92)


Tasted on 28 August 2015

有點點青，但亦有著貴氣的一枝特級田葡萄酒。酒香有頗複雜的香氣，酒力亦算強勁，以這酒莊來說是中上的表現。餘韻算長，亦複雜，很不錯。優優雅雅的，好飲。

2009 Morey Saint Denis 1er Cru Cuvee des Alouettes, Domaine Ponsot

This dry red wine has deep ruby colour and slightly higher than medium intensity aromas of red cherry, candied red berry, earth, toast and touch of spice. Its acidity, alcohol and bodied are all at medium level with medium tannin. On palate it gives over medium flavours of red cherry, rose, cabbage and touch of earth and mushroom. Longer than medium length with red berry finish. (91)


Tasted on 28 July 2015


頗柔順及果感的，酒有一定強度及複雜性，酒香及酒味表現一致，沒有一點厚重感但又有令人飲後有點滿足的，很不錯，餘韻亦算長，好酒一枝。

2006 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Clos St. Jacques, Domaine Bruno Clair

Fairly deep ruby coloured with medium intensity aromas of red berry, mushroom, cabbage, blackcurrant leaves and touch of licorice. It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with medium fine grained tannin. On palate it has medium intensity flavours of red berry, stalky, rose pedal, licorice and earth. Slightly over medium length with wild red berry finish. (90)


Tasted on 28 August 2015

這酒的餘韻味道很不錯，有野生果實的感覺。酒的大部分表現只是適度，複雜性也不算太強，以這葡萄園來說比較差了點。

2001 Charmes Chambertin, Domaine Henri Perrot

A deep ruby dry red wine with quite high intensity noses of red plum, red cherry jam, cabbage, rose jam and touch of licorice, mushroom and toast. It has medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with medium level fine grained tannin, a bit coarse. The flavours contain red cherry plum cabbage, rose, earth and touch of vegetal note, at medium intensity level. Slightly longer than medium length and red plum finish. (91)


Tasted pm 28 August 2015


一枝中規中矩的 GRAND CRU。中上的酒香強度和複雜性，酒在口中的表現不及酒香，單寧有點點鞋口，餘韻合格而酒味強度稍弱，但整體還不錯的。

2009 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Bel-Air, Philippe Pacalet

Quite deep ruby coloured, this wine has slightly higher than medium aromas of strawberry candy, ripe plum, and rose jam, very fruity. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol, quite full bodied with medium ripe and fine tannin. The flavours are at slightly higher than medium level, red cherry jam, rose jam, plum and touch of cranberry and earth. Fairly long length with red cherry jam finish. (90) Jammy fruit.


Tasted on 28 August 2015

09年的布根地紅酒現在飲仍充滿著濃濃的醬果味，特別是這酒莊的產品。果味十分濃，但複雜性略嫌低了點點，希望時間可以有所幫助。酒的粹取物不錯，有潛力發展，可以陳放多一會，不錯的酒。

2001 Chevalier Montrachet Les Demoiselles, Louis Jadot

A medium lemon coloured dry white wine with quite high intensity noses of lemon, amber, honey, ripe pear and touch of steel, vanilla and floral. It has medium acidity and alcohol with quite full bodied. On palate it gives consistently high intensity of lemon, honey, amber, pear and touch of savory tone of mineral. Slightly longer than medium length with lemon and roasted nut finish. (92)


Tasted on 28 August 2015


酒很不錯，誰說這酒莊沒有好產品?酒的風味由聞到飲也很一致，酒亦發展成熟，建議飲用(最好叫埋我)。複雜性與酒力也屬中上，餘韻亦長，在口中有點點醎香，好飲。

2012 Chablis les Clos, Jean-Marc Brocard

This dry white wine has medium intensity lemon green colour. On nose it gives medium intensity aromas of lime, green apple, mineral, and touch of peach. Quite high acidity with medium alcohol and bodied. The flavour intensity is higher than that of nose with flavours of lime, peach, and wet stone. Fairly long length with lime and peach fruit finish. (91) Good fruit, clean and crisp.


Tasted on 28 July 2015

清爽，乾脆，果味很好的一款沙布利。礦物質感十分豐富，餘韻亦顯示出它的質素。雖然簡單直接的，但也是一枝不錯的酒。

2009 Pavillon Blanc du Ch. Margaux

Medium lemon green coloured with fairly high intensity aromas of lemon grass, stewed apple, guava, and touch of vanilla and nuts, it is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Fuller than medium bodied with slightly higher than medium intensity flavours of honey, guava, hay, stewed pear. Long than medium length with nutty finish. (90)



Tasted on 28 July 2015

整體不錯。有一定的強度及複雜性。餘韻亦長，是一枝中上水準的波爾多白酒。千祈唔好用價錢去衡量，因為以咁的水準而有平過佢的也不難搵。

1996 Ch. d'Yquem

This Sauternes has medium intensity lemon colour. On nose it gives quite high intensity aromas of lemon, apricot, orange marmalade, grass, mineral, peach and honey. Sweet with slightly higher than medium acidity, quite full bodied with medium alcohol On palate it has higher than medium flavours of lemon curd, honey, dried apricot, mineral and touch of grass. Medium length with honey lemon finish. (91)


Tasted on11 July 2015

標準的滴金香氣和酒味，強度不錯，只是複雜性不足以令這酒有更高評價。餘韻亦反映了這酒的質素，是一枝甜酒，也是一枝不過不失的滴金。

2013 Target Gully Mountain Difficulty Pinot Noir

A dark ruby coloured dry red wine with medium intensity aromas of red plum, cherry jam, cabbage, mushroom, vanilla and touch of earth. It has medium level acidity and alcohol, fuller than medium bodied too. The tannin is soft at barely medium level with medium red cherry length. The flavours contain red plum, cherry, licorice and touch of dry earth and dust. (89)


Tasted on 10 July 2015

 如果期望似布根地酒是有點不切實際。酒有著紐西蘭黑皮諾的醬果風格。果味濃濃，單寧卻柔軟，餘韻適中。在口中果感滿滿的，很有滿足感，不錯的佐餐酒。

2006 Donnhoff Schlossbockelheimer Felsenberg Riesling Auslese

Medium lemon colour with medium noses of honey, apricot, pineapple, lemon jam, and touch of grass, petrol and peach, quite fruity indeed. It has higher than medium sour acidity, medium sweet but lower than medium alcohol. Quite full bodied with medium flavour intensity. The flavours contain lemon, floral, petrol, wet stone and touch of peach and mango. Longer than medium lemony length. (90)



Tasted on 4 July 2015

骨骨子子的一枝德國白酒。果味不錯 ，品種特色的表現也好，餘韻亦算合格，只是強度和複雜性只是一般，可以一喝的甜酒。

2010 Meursault, Mischief and Mayhem

This wine has medium lemon green colour with slightly higher than medium intensity aromas of lemon, white flower, honey, peach, cream soda and touch of vanilla. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Quite full bodied with slightly high then medium flavour intensity. The flavours contain lemon, white flower, cream, peach with touch of almond. Longer than medium length with lemon jam finish. (90) Bit thick mouthfeel, good intensity but lack of complexity.


Tasted on 12 June 2015

厚重的一款白酒，有著梅索村的風格。入口的厚重感襲人，隨之而來的是那強烈的酒香。酒在口中有豐滿的感覺，餘韻亦不錯，只是其複雜性不足以令它有更高的評價。重口味之選。

2013 Felton Road Calvert Pinot Noir

A deep ruby wine with quite high intensity or redcherry perfume, rose cream, vanilla and touch of cabbage, quite floral. Dry with medium acidity, medium alcohol and medium bodied. Medium fine grained tannin too. On palate it has slightly over medium flavours of  red cherry, licorice and cabbage. A bit shorter than medium length. Cherry finish. (88) Good food wine.


Tasted on 12 June 2015

一盤花果的香氣襲鼻而來，但複雜性欠缺了點。酒在口中表現合格，酒味比酒香弱了一點點，但還不錯，餘韻短了些，一枝好的食飯酒。

2011 Vosne Romanee, Domaine Sylvain Cathiard

This wine has fairly deep ruby colour. On nose it gives quite high intensity aromas of wild red cherry, rose, wet leaves, cabbage, licorice, mushroom and touch of earth. Dry with medium acidity, alcohol and a bit lighter than medium bodied. Lower than medium fine-grained tannin too. On palate it has medium flavours of red cherry, cabbage, tea and licorice. Slightly longer than medium length with red plum finish. (89)


Tasted on 12 June 2015

公公整整的酒，但不屬於濃烈那類，可以說有點清幽感。酒香不俗，酒味也可以，餘韻幽幽的長，酒體有點淡淡的。要強要爆的人不會喜歡這酒，但佐餐我覺得會不錯的。

2004 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru Lavaux St. Jacques, Domaine Denis Mortet

Deep ruby coloured with medium noses of black plum, rose jam, damp earth, forest floor, mushroom, licorice, anise, with depth and complexity. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Fuller than medium bodied with medium slightly green tannin. On palate, it has medium flavour of redberry, forest floor, earth, licorice and rose pedal. Slightly longer than medium length with redberry jam finish. (91)


Tasted on 12 June 2015

這個分數主因是它的餘韻。酒的強度不論在酒香或酒味上都只是一般，但複雜性其實不錯的。單寧貫徹著04年的感覺，有點青。整體說也是一個不錯的酒。

2005 Ch. Brane Cantenac

A deep purple wine with quite high intensity aromas of blackcurrant, black plum, violet, pine, licorice and touch of chocolate and nutmeg. It is dry with medium acidity, medium alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. Quite high tannin but soft and ripe. The flavour intensity is slightly higher than medium with flavours of blueberry, violet, licorice and touch of vegetal. Fairly long length with black cherry finish. (92)



Tasted on 12 June 2015

香氣強勁濃郁而且複雜，果香濃烈之餘亦展現出成熟之味道。單寧仍強勁，可是很熟和柔順。餘韻亦長，只是酒味在口中複雜性下降了，酒力也弱了點點。

1985 Ch. Lafite Rothschild

This wine still possesses deep purple colour but with a paler rim. It has quite high intensity noses of blackcurrant, bell pepper, tobacco, licorice, violet and its typical pencil shaving notes. Dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with medium soft and silky tannin. On palate it has quite high intensity flavours of black cherry, herbaceous, pencil shaving, tobacco and licorice. Long balckberry finish. (92)


Tasted on 23 May 2015


貫徹著拉菲的風格，表現四平八穩的。酒的口感柔滑順喉，好易唔覺意成枝"啪"哂。有一定複雜性和強度，餘韻也長，要彈的是複雜性不夠配得起拉菲這個品牌，而且酒已發展到很成熟，甚至開始有點老態，要飲了。

2002 Clos de Vougeot, Domain Hudelot Noellat

This dry red wine has quite deep intensity ruby colour. On nose it has medium intensity aromas of rose perfume, strawberry, red cherry, spice, vegetal and touch of mushroom. Dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied, medium fine grained tannin too. On palate it has quite high intensity flavours of rose tea, vegetal, cabbage, licoirce and touch of wet earth. Close to long length with red cherry finish. (92)


Tasted on 8 May 2015

有些酒的表現是越來越精彩的，這酒就是一個好例子。聞時覺得中規中舉，香氣強度一般，複雜性不錯。但入口之後便覺得好飲。雖然不是太複雜，但強度比酒香多了，餘韻亦長，好飲。

1993 Vosne Romanee Aux Reignots, Bouchard Pere & Fils

Deep ruby coloured with quite high intensity aromas of rose jam, red plum jam, strawberry, licorice spice and touch of cabbage and blood, it is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. Smooth medium tannin and fairly long length with redberry finish. The flavour intensity is at slightly higher than medium level with flavours of redberry, rose pedal, plum, licorice and some vegetal notes. (91)


Tasted on 8 May 2015

聞好過飲的，開始時覺得酒是很濃，因為酒香強而豐富，入口後強度還可以，但複雜性轉弱了不少，餘韻不錯，口感亦柔順，加回點分。

1998 Krug Clos d'Ambonnay

This champagne has medium intensity lemon colour with pink tinge. On nose it has quite high intensity aromas of wild strawberry, stewed apple, caramel, toasted walnut and touch of bread, rose and chalk. It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. Creamy mousse with fairly high intensity flavours of apple, bread, wild cherry, almond and touch of yeast, chalk and caramel. Close to long length with caramel finish. (94)

Tasted on 24 April 2015

絕對是一枝出色的白中黑香檳。酒香發展出強勁複雜的香氣， 同時亦展出其黑皮諾特色，只聞酒香也會感到是一枝白中黑。口感豐滿亦有生氣，酒味在口中轉化了點，但仍有一定強度。餘韻亦長，好好飲。(品評完之後才知道價錢，嚇到有點汗，好彩我是一個出類拔箤的菠蘿雞)

2004 Vosne Romanee 1er Aux Malconsorts, Sylvain Cathiard

This wine has almost deep intensity ruby colour. On nose it gives quite high intensity aromas of strawberry, vegetal, rose pedal, smoke, red cherry jam and touch of tea, cabbage and blood. Dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. Close to medium intensity tannin with a touch of greenness. The flavour intensity is at slightly higher than medium level with red plum, strawberry, rose pedal, and touch of British tea, cabbage and vegetal. Fairly long length with red plum finish. (92)



Tasted on 24 April 2015

酒很香，複雜性也好。單寧可能是年份關係有點青。酒味仍維持著其複雜性及強度，餘韻亦算長，好飲。好彩有人請我飲。