2005 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Amoureuses, Nicolas Potel

An almost deep ruby coloured dry red wine with pronounced nose of red plum jam, earth, rose, cabbage, licorice and touch of vegetal. It has medium acidity and alcohol with slightly fuller than medium bodied. Medium ripe and fine-grained tannin and slightly higher than medium flavour intensity. Red cherry, cabbage, rose, strawberry, and touch of forest floor and spice. Close to long length with red plum finish. (93)

Tasted on 8 November 2013

比93分主要係因為枝酒的酒力好足，整體複雜性並不足以有此分數。雖則如此，這酒的複雜性仍有一定的水準，餘韻亦吸引，酒味更帶著田土風格，很不錯。

2010 Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Comte Georges de Vouge

This dry wine has almost deep ruby in colour. On nose it gives pronounced aromas of red berry jam, damp forest, rose perfume and touch of earth and mint leaves. Medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. Tannin is ripe and soft at medium level with slightly over medium flavours. red berry jam, red plum, cabbage and sweet spice. Barely over medium length with redberry jam finish. (91) Round and ripe but not complex enough.

Tasted on 8 November 2013

明知早飲了也試試的酒。酒香好，雖然未有足夠時間發展，但已展開他的一點潛力。酒體順滑柔和，餘韻不錯，雖然不是很長。酒在口中酒味略遜，再發展下去酒香應比酒味更吸引。整體是一枝好好的村酒。

2008 Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru Les Cras, Domaine G. Roumier

Fairly deep ruby coloured with pronounced noses of red plum, cabbage, rose, clove, earth, damp wood and touch of incense. It is dry with slightly over medium acidity, medium bodied and alcohol with soft medium tannin. On palate it gives medium intensity flavours of red cherry, toast, vegetal, cabbage and strawberry candy. Fairly long length with red plummy finish. (91) Need more palate.

Tasted on 8 November 2013

一枝反映了產地田土風格的酒，但欠了點點優雅及陰森感。酒香好，有力而且有一定複雜性，酒味比酒香略差了點，餘韻仍算不錯，幾好飲。

2007 Savigny Les Beaune, Domaine Bruno Clair

Fairly deep ruby coloured with slightly over medium noses of red cherry, red plum, wild strawberry and touch of cabbage and mint spice. It is dry with touch of over medium acidity, medium alcohol and barely medium bodied. On palate it gives medium flavours of red plum, wild berry and touch of vegetal. Barely medium wild berry length and green tannin. (87) Bit weak.

Tasted on 2 November 2013

簡單，有一定果香，不太複雜，口感有點弱，餘韻亦有點短，單寧有點青，酒力亦有點不足，好像樣樣都有點欠缺似的。如果只追求有點果味的話，尚可一喝。

Macallan Thirties Single Malt Whisky

Medium gold with copper tinge whisky. On nose it gives pronounced aromas of malt barley, peat, honey, caramel and touch of cheese and citrus. Water enhances its smokiness and fruitiness. It is off dry with medium integrated alcohol. Quite full bodied with medium acidity. Medium intensity flavours of honey, peat, malt, caramel and sweet vanilla. Fairly long length with honey finish. (93)
Good rancio character but a little bit weak on palate.


Tasted on 19 October 2013

一枝麥卡倫嘗試防製他們30年代的酒的威士忌，酒香出眾，展現了一定的陳年特性，可是在口中酒味差了點。餘韻亦長，不錯。

Paul-Etienne Saint Germain Champagne Tradition Blanc de Blanc Brut

Medium lemon green colour with tiny and persistent bubbles. On nose it gives almost pronounced aromas of green apple, lemon, bread and some floral notes. It is dry with slightly over medium acidity. Creamy mousse, medium alcohol and a touch fuller than medium bodied. Slightly over medium flavours of citrus, grapefruit and touch of yeast and cream. Medium length with lemony finish. (88) Fresh, fruity, good intensity but lack of complexity.

Tasted on 22 September 2013

這評分完全是出於酒的力度。酒香及酒味都強，但欠了一點複雜性，餘韻也只是一般，可口的一枝香檳，日常飲用也不錯的。

2005 Ch. Haut Brisson La Grave

An inky deep purple wine with quite pronounced aromas of black plum, black cherry, mulberry, sweet spice and touch of menthol and pine forest. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Quite full bodied with medium ripe and sweet tannin. On palate it gives barely medium flavours of black cherry, plum and touch of earth. Barely over medium length with plummy finish. (87) good nose and only good nose......

Tasted on 11 October 2013

酒香令枝酒多了兩分。酒味簡單，餘韻尚算合格，口中複雜性欠奉，唯一較吸引係酒香，單寧也不錯。

2005 Romirasco Barolo Bussia, Aldo Conterno

With medium acidity and alcohol, this deep ruby dry red wine has medium intensity nose of rose jam, black berry, mint leaf, clove and touch of road tar. Fuller than medium bodied with fairly high fine grained tannin, together with slightly higher than medium flavours of black cherry, tar, coal and touch of mint. Longer than medium length with black berry finish. (91)

Tasted on 7 September 2013

酒香頗吸引，複雜性高，可是濃度不是那麼強。餘韻不錯，酒味的強度也可以，複雜性亦合格，幾好飲。

2010 Charmes Chambertin, Domaine Geantet-Pansiot

It is a deep ruby dry red wine with medium intensity aromas of red plum, red berry jam, cranberry and touch of vegetal and mushroom. Medium acidity and alcohol with slightly fuller than medium bodied. The tannin is at medium level and fine grained in nature. Higher than medium flavours of red cherry, vegetal, cabbage and touch of licorice, together with a slightly longer than medium length. Red cherry finish. (91)

Tasted on 7 September 2013

未飲都知又殺嬰。酒仍須一段時間發展，酒味、酒香及餘韻仍須時改良，但現在試我覺得這酒發展下去酒的香氣會比酒味好一點，而酒亦會較輕，不會像03、06、09年的酒那樣。

2008 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Lavaux St. Jacques, Domaine Claude Dugat

A deep ruby dry red wine with medium noses of red plum, red berry, strawberry jam and touch of rose, cabbage and mineral, rather fruity. Medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with medium soft ripe tannin. On palate it has slightly higher than medium intensity flavours of red cherry, cabbage, plum jam and touch of spice. Longer than medium length with red plum finish. (91) Still young.

Tasted on 7 September 2013

08年酒，早飲了些，現在仍是以果味為主導的酒。這酒在口中味道比聞強勁一點，但酒香的複雜性卻比酒味的好，明顯酒在發展中，仲發展得唔錯，有貨的值得期待。

1982 Ch. Leoville Barton

This old bordeaux still has rather deep purple colour. On nose it has quite high intensity aromas of bell pepper, black plum and cherry, smoke, toast and touch of earth. It is dry with medium alcohol and acidity. Slightly fuller than medium bodied and medium fine grained tannin. The flavour intensity and length are both at medium level with flavours of bell pepper, black plum and spice, and wild cherry finish. (89)

Tasted on 7 September 2013

展現出老酒的風味。除非很喜歡飲陳年舊酒，否則有貨要飲了。酒味應沒有發展空間了，香氣不錯，力度及複雜性皆可，但酒味的力度及複雜性差了點。餘韻尚算不錯。幾好飲，但不會有任何驚喜的。

1997 Batard Montrachet, Domaine Paul Pernot

Medium lemon coloured with fairly high intensity aromas of lemon, honey, white flower, butter, walnut and touch of stone. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Fuller than medium bodied with medium intensity flavours of lemon, honey, butter and cream. Longer than medium length with honey lemon finish. (91)

Tasted on 7 September 2013

聞好過飲。酒香複雜性算足而香氣亦算強。可是酒味在口中力度轉弱，複雜性亦有點不足，餘韻算好。都是一枝可口的酒。

2000 Krug

A dry champagne with medium lemon colour and creamy mousse. On nose it gives fairly pronounced aromas of ripe apple, zesty lemon, floral with touch of honey, pear and tropical fruit. It has medium plus acidity and medium alcohol. Slightly fuller than medium bodied with fairly high intensity flavours. Lemon, yeast, bread, cream and ripe apple. Fairly long length with lemon bread finish. (93)

Tasted on 7 September 2013

由聞到飲都好一致的香檳。酒香及酒味在勁度及複雜性都一致，分別不大。餘韻亦算長，收結的味度幾出色，展示了酒一致的複雜性，好飲，是一枝上等的香檳。

1990 Ch. La Conseillante

This is a dry red wine with deeper than medium intensity purple colour. On nose it has fairly high intensity aromas of black plum, vegetal, cedar, black cherry, violet, lavender and touch of earth, mint, and smoke. Medium level of acidity and alcohol, with slightly fuller than medium bodied and fine grained tannin. On palate, it has slightly over medium intensity flavours of vegetal, cedar, smoke and violet. Fairly long length with plummy finish. (94)

Tasted on 28 August 2013

酒的香氣非常出色，複雜強勁而有層次，剩係聞酒香的話可以拍得住頂級佳釀。酒在口中的力度弱了點，複雜性低了點，層次感亦差不多沒了，餘韻也不錯。這些可能就是與頂級佳釀的分別吧。但總的來說是很不錯的酒。與朋友一路飲一路談天說地的話，這酒是非常合適的。

90 Ch. d'Yquem

Medium copper with fairly high intensity aromas of orange, apricot, honey and touch of caramel, grass, lime and mango. It is sweet with over medium intensity zesty acidity. Medium alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. The flavours has over medium level intensity, which contain grass, honey, apricot, raisin and caramel. Fairly long length with orange marmalade and honey finish. (93)

Tasted on 17 August 2013

這枝滴金好像已經發展成熟似的。酒香及酒味的力度及複雜性也不錯，酸度及甜度的平衡也算好，但如果想要爽口一點的甜酒的話，這酒可能交唔到貨比你。不是這酒酸度跌至太低，只是它的酸度不至會有清爽口感。好飲的。

1999 Henschke Hill of Grace

A deep purple dry red wine with pronounced nose of black cherry, black plum, black pepper and touch of pine, licorice and black olive. Medium acidity and alcohol with quite full bodied and medium fine grained tannin. On palate it gives medium intensity flavours of black cherry, vegetal, herbaceous, olive and touch of pepper. Rather cool and feminine with long length and black cherry finish. (93)

Tasted on 17 August 2013

陰陰柔柔的口感但有著濃烈複雜的香氣，酒味的複雜性也不錯但強度較弱了點，餘韻長，仍有些發展潛力。

1996 Musigny, Domaine Jacques Prieur

This wine has a deep ruby colour and pronounced noses of rose, red plum jam, red cherry, meat and spice. Dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Medium tannin and slightly over medium bodied. On palate it has fairly high intensity of red cherry, rose, british tea and touch of menthol. Fairly long length with red cherry and rose finish. (93)

Tasted on 17 August 2013

奇怪的地方是酒身唔夠順滑，以這葡萄園來說可以說是有點鞋口。酒香不錯，但香味令人覺得酒的風格較重。酒在口中也表現不錯，餘韻亦長。整體也是好喝的，只是沒有MUSIGNY一貫的順滑感。

1990 Ch. Lynch Bages

A deep purple wine with pronounced aromas of blackcurrant, black plum, earth, graphite, licorice, violet, smoke and touch of dust and brick. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Slightly fuller than medium bodied with medium ripe soft tannin. On palate it has fairly high intensity flavour of vegetal, black cherry, licorice and touch of earth and graphite. Long length with black cherry finish. (96)

Tasted on 17 August 2013

酒香非常複雜強勁，餘韻可口悠長，單寧順滑成熟，唯口中酒味複雜性並沒有酒香咁好，酒味的層次感亦小了點，否則這是一枝接近滿分的酒。

2007 Vosne-Romanee 1er Aux Reignots, Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair

This dry red wine has a deep ruby colour with pronounced nose of cabbage, red plum, red cherry jam, strawberry, smoke, rose jam and touch of dried herb. It has medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with barely soft medium ripe tannin. On palate, it gives over medium intensity flavour of red cherry, strawberry, licorice and dried herb. Long length with red berry finish. (93)

Tasted on 17 August 2013

香氣誇啦啦，又強又複雜。酒在口中感覺順滑柔和，餘韻又長。只是酒在口中的複雜性欠了點，但總的來說是一枝飲得好開心好舒服的酒，會令你飲完一口又一口的。

1996 Batard Montrachet, Domaine Etienne Sauzet

Medium lemon coloured with fairly high intensity aromas of pineapple, honey, vanilla, wet stone, mineral and cantaloupe. It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. Slight higher than medium intensity flavours of honey, lemon, mineral, flint and almond. Long length with honey citrus finish. (94)

Tasted on 17 August 2013

好好味的一枝白酒。酒香酒力也好好，餘韻又長。香氣亦有一點變化，複雜性比在口中出色。如果酒味在口中的複雜性再多一點就更好了，如果酒味有一點層次感就更加不得了。

2003 Auxey-Duresses, Domaine d'Auvenay

This dry white wine has deeper than medium intensity lemon colour. On nose it gives medium intensity aromas of lemon, roasted sesame, hazelnut, butter, and stewed pear. Barely medium acidity and medium alcohol. Just fuller than medium bodied with medium flavour intensity. The flavours contain lemon, almond, butter and touch of honey. Fairly long length with bitter lemon finish. (92) Just because of length.

Tasted on 17 August 2013

飲之前已知啊公D酒一D都唔平。好彩這枝不是我買的。雖然只是一枝村酒，年份也不是一個好年份，但相信也不便宜。酒較簡單，特別在口中的表現十分普通，酒香算不錯的。可是(也可能是年份關係)酒的酸度欠了點，亦感覺到酒的熟果味重，令人感到酒的年份。最值得讚的是餘韻，否則唔會比咁高分。有錢買這酒的人應該可以買到比它好的酒品。

1990 Dom Perignon

Deeper than medium lemon colour with slightly over medium intensity aromas of ripe apple, honey, hazelnut, caramel, lemon zest and touch of camomile. It is dry with medium zesty acidity, medium alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. Long and persistent bubble and creamy mousse. On palate it gives fairly high intensity flavour of lemon, flower, honey, butter, caramel and touch of musky. Quite long length with honey citrus finish. (94)

Tasted on 17 August 2013

好味道。有一定複雜性及酒力，餘韻亦很不錯，酒亦已發展成熟，90年所謂的 PERFECT TEN 不無道理。

參觀威士忌蒸餾廠(四) - Glenfarclas

最後一間係 Glenfarclas。一間出囗至超過 50 個國家、經歷 6 代的家族式蒸餾廠。他們的這個家族式與一些家族生意不同。他們仍是完全由一個家族擁有，不像其他只是由家族擁有部份股份及管理。 

歷史 

Glenfarclas 的歷史由 1791 年已經開始，但他們家族於 1836 年才取得牌照。酒廠經歷了 1865 至 1890 年行業工業化的轉變，但仍舊堅持舊有製法，亦專注於本土市場，賣酒比酒商作混合之用。當時他們亦想過創立品牌，亦諗過用 Glenlivet 呢個標籤（當時已經有人用）。其後 J G Smith 於 1880 年打官司爭取 Glenlivet 這個標籤，法庭最後判決只有他們可以用 Glenlivet 這個標籤，而其他廠只可以用這個字作字尾，所以他們的品牌便是 Glenfarclas-Glenlivet。 

1890 年 George G Grant 去世，他的兩個兒子 John 及 George 負責管理酒廠及麥場。當時威士忌的風潮開始轉向 Speyside 的風格，而 Islay 及 Campbeltown 開始失勢。酒廠亦有一定發展，亦開始迎來他們一場風暴。酒廠與酒商 Pattisons 於 1896 年合夥成立合夥公司，各佔一半股權。酒廠會負責製作威士忌，而 Pattisons 負責行銷。由於 Pattisons 因後來經營不善而導致清盤，因合夥人關係而導致 Pattisons 的債主向合夥公司追酒。但其實 Glenfarclas 仍未賣酒至合夥公司，可是仍因此而引起一連串訴訟。可幸的事，Glenfarclas 及 Pattisons 的合夥協議容許 Glenfarclas 可以優先買回合夥公司的資產，在得到銀行支持下，Glenfarclas 得以維持下去，事件繞釀至 1905 年，亦導致 Glenfarclas 走上一條獨立運作之路，直至現在，他們仍堅持由家族一直擁有酒廠，亦拒絕一切外來的收購要約，是現在碩果僅存的家族擁有及經營的酒廠。 

直至 1970 年前，他們主力還是製作麥芽威士忌供其他品牌混合之用，包括大家熟悉的 Ballantine。酒商對 Glenfarclas 酒的評價很高，亦令酒廠在財務上得到充實。 1913 年 John Grant 過身，George 成為主事人。在他帶領下酒廠捱過了 1920 至 1950 年的大蕭條及大戰。酒廠於 1947 年才轉為有限公司，1970 年代開始生產自家品牌的 Single Malt Whisky。 1972 年他們關閉了麥廠，並改建為焙爐及磨坊，增加了産能。在 1973 年他們獲得了 Chivas 一張大訂單，足夠他們一年的產量。因此他們加大投資，於其後幾年加建蒸餾壼及開設訪客中心。 

生產特式

Glenfarclas 的生產特式主要有三方面：直接用火加熱蒸餾（Direct Firing）、雪利酒桶使用（Sherry Casks）及潮濕和低層的倉庫。

酒廠現在是由製麥廠購入麥芽。麥芽品種叫 Optic，而且主要是經過低程度焙乾（約 3 ppm）。一般儲存了約兩星期的用量。他們發酵是分開兩段，一批發酵約 48 小時，另一批 96 小時，之後會把兩批混合再蒸餾。

酒廠有 3 對蒸餾壼，Wash Still 容量約 25000 公升，Spirit Still 約 21000 公升。他們會真接用火加熱，現在已經冇乜廠會咁用了。因為酒廠深信用火直接加熱會令酒更有特式。他們曾於 1980 年試過改用發熱圏加熱，但他們發現製成的酒不再似他們的風格，所以即刻改回用火。

木桶方面，他們主要用雪利酒桶（ex-sherry casks)。全部酒儲存在他們傳统的非常潮濕的酒倉，酒桶只排起兩層。 

產品方面，他們有一系列的陳年威士忌，由 12 年至 17、25、30、40 年。早於數月前他們在香港推出他們的50年威士忌。另外，他們亦有一款叫 Glenfarclas 105 Cask Strength 的威士忌，有成 60 度酒精。 

另一款他們較特式的系列是他們每一年都會出年份威士忌，因為他們覺得這樣做好好玩。所以在他們的遊客中心內有一個櫃陳列了每一年的年份威士忌，頗壯觀的。大家亦可找出及買入自己的年份。這些威士忌全是 Single Cask Cask Strength 的。 

試酒 

今次酒廠遊歷的其中一個任務是幫人找一些好的威士忌成桶買。所以在這酒廠試酒是在他的酒窖內試。

當我們一行七人步入酒窖後，酒廠的銷售總監和酒窖經理便開始給我第一個樣本。我問他我可否寫紀錄時，他便給了我一個木的檔案板，板上的文件夾上有兩張 A4 紙。我看看發現是一個列表，第一欄是年份，之後是酒窖號碼，酒桶行號及木桶號碼，非常詳盡。之後他便說他給我的樣本是表中第一行所列的。

我試酒時看一看環境，他們並沒有吐桶給我吐，所以我呑了。剛呑下之後，他便給我另一個樣本，並說這是表中第二行所列的！那我立刻看看那兩張 A4 紙，每一頁約有 50 行，亦即表示他們约有 100 個樣本給我試！在不可以吐的情況下，我開始擔心我會醉了。之後我開始越來越揀擇，有些樣本只聞一下，香氣一不足夠就唔試，最後選擇了約 10 桶酒叫他們報價。 

試完後他們問我有什麼特別的酒想試。剛巧有朋友是 1966 年誕生，便問他可否試 1966 年的威士忌。酒窖經理一聽之後便説：「1966 was a bad year.」。我們正想問原因之時，他便說：「Because England won World Cup that year.」。這個笑話可笑了我們一整天，亦感受到蘇格蘭人對英格蘭有幾深厚的「感情」。 

最後，由於自己頗喜歡這酒廠的酒，所以又掃了一點.......

2006 Echezeaux, Domaine d'Eugenie

This wine has quite deep ruby colour with fairly high intensity noses of red plum, earth, rose, red cherry jam, smoke and warm earth. It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied, soft and ripe medium tannin too. The flavour intensity is at slightly over medium level with flavours of rose, cherry, red plum, licorice and tea. Slightly over medium length with red plum finish. (91)

Tasted on 6 August 2013

色澤比想像中淺但香氣及其複雜性仍足，單寧柔順而酒味亦夠，可是複雜性差了點，餘韻不錯，幾好飲的。

2002 Echezeaux, Jean Pierre Mugneret

This dry red wine possesses almost deep ruby colour. It has medium acidity but a bit sharp. Medium alcohol and barely medium bodied. Tannin is at medium level and fine grained in nature. On nose it has medium intensity aromas of tea, rose, red cherry, spice and touch of licorice. On palate, it gives slightly over medium flavours of red cherry, rose and dried spice. Medium length with red cherry finish. (89)


Tasted on 6 August 2013

簡單了點，酒香及酒味力度普通，複雜性也差了點，餘韻合格，收結簡單，一般的酒品，以牙刷蘇來說有些令人失望。

2005 Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte

This full bodied bordeaux wine has deep purple colour. On nose it gives fairly high intensity aromas of blackcurrant, black plum, licorice, black cherry jam, smoke, menthol and touch of earth. It is dry with medium alcohol and acidity, quite rich texture and medium soft and ripe tannin. On palate it has slightly over medium flavours of vegetal, blackcurrant, earth and dusty stone. Longer than medium length with black cherry finish. (92)

Tasted on 26 July 2013

酒香足及，其複雜性頗出色。酒味豐厚而餘韻亦算長，酒味的複雜性差了點點，單寧成熟而口感也厚，幾好飲。

2006 Clos de Vougeot, Domaine de la Vougeraie

A deep ruby wine with medium intensity aromas of red cherry, red plum, cabbage, spice and dried herb. It is dry and medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with medium soft tannin but a bit green. It also has barely over medium intensity flavours of red cherry, red plum, menthol and vegetal. The length is just over medium with subtle red cherry finish. (90)

Tasted on 13 July 2013

可以說這酒中規中矩，不太似一枝 GRAND CRU 的級數，酒味及酒力一般，複雜性也一般，口中的酒味較好點點，餘韻也可以，可以一試。

2006 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Les Beaux Monts, Domaine Michel Noellat et Fils

This is a deep ruby colour dry red wine with fairly high intensity aromas of rose, red cherry, red plum, forest floor and damp wood. It has medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with medium soft tannin. On palate it has over medium flavours of red cherry, rose, spice and touch of wormwood. Barely over medium length with red plum finish. (91)

Tasted on 13 July 2013

香氣不錯，有一定複雜性，單寧算順滑，口味也算好但簡單了一點，餘韻尚可而收結亦簡單了點。整體也是不錯的酒品。

1998 Hermitage la Chapelle, Paul Jaboulet Aine

Deep purple colour with fairly high intensity aromas of black cherry, pepper, menthol, toasted herb, hay and dried spice. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Fuller than medium bodied with higher than medium fine grained tannin. Medium intensity flavours of black plum, cherry, spice, licorice and herb with fairly long length with black plum and spicy finish. (91)

Tasted on 13 July 2013

在口中差了點，其他各方面都不錯。香氣、餘韻及複雜性都頗佳，其烤乾香草味突出，可能會把其果味及其他香氣蓋過。

1995 Barbaresco, Gaja

Deep ruby coloured with slightly higher than medium nose of rose, black cherry, licorice, black plum jam. It has medium acidity and alcohol. Fuller than medium bodied and quite high tannin but ripe and fine nature. Slightly over medium intensity flavours of black plum, cherry, spice, rose and touch of tar. Fairly long length with black plum and cherry type black fruit finish. (92) Still young.

Tasted on 13 July 2013

18年後酒仍須更多時間發展，香氣及酒味也足，口感也算豐富而餘韻亦長，只是花果味仍重，再過一段時間會更好。

1983 Ch. La Fleur Petrus

This wine has barely deep purple colour. The aromas intensity is at medium level with noses of black plum, olive, vegetal, smoke, tobacco and touch of hay. It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. Fine-grained medium tannin too. On palate it gives fairly high intensity flavours of black plum, olive, spice and dried herb with slightly longer than medium length of black plum. (90)

Tasted on 13 July 2013

成熟，甚至有點點過態。酒香複雜性很好，酒的力度下降了不少，這酒的口感比香氣更強，餘韻也不錯，幾好飲。

酒鬼的讀書報告 (6) - Malt Whisky - The Complete Guide

書名: Malt Whisky - The Complete Guide

編者: Charles MacLean 

版本: 2010年 


書籍簡介: 


全書 240 頁，包括頭 5 頁 的 CONTENTS 及 PREFACE 和尾 5 頁的 Index。 內文方面，唔計Introduction，全書分開了幾個部份。分別為：

1. History：講述威士忌的歷史；
2. How Whisky Is Made：解構整個威士忌的生產過程；
3. Whisky Tasting：教讀者如何去品飲威士忌及試飮的安排；
4. The Whisky Region：介紹各產區的酒的特性；
5. Directory：以字母排序介紹各蒸餾廠；
6. 其他包括：介紹威士忌會社、網站、如何買威士忌及探訪蒸餾廠。

之後到附錄 Bibliography，由第 233 頁開始，index 則由第236頁開始。

History 由威士忌的名字開始說起，一直至 20 世紀 90 年代。值得一提的是每頁的下方有一個年表，列出某些年份一些威士忌的重要事件。

How Whisky Is Made 則首先介紹製造威士忌的主要成份，包括水，麥芽及酵母。之後就由發麥芽開始介紹整個生產過程，直至入瓶為止。

Whisky Tasting 正如一些講品酒的書一樣，由場地設定開始談到如何品飮威士忌。本章亦提及一些威士忌的酒香及酒味描述，亦提供了一個類似葡萄酒 Aroma Wheel 的 Whisky Wheel。

The Whisky Region 完全是一個地理介紹，把每一個他們業內分的區作一個介紹，包括地理位置、風格、產量等等。

Directory 是一個蒸餾廠目錄，每間都會介紹他們的擁有人、位置及蒸餾廠的一些歷史。有些更會有一個簡單的品酒筆記紀錄這廠的酒的特色。 最後的是資料庫。這章提供了酒商、酒網、威士忌會社的資料。

最後幾頁還有各蒸餾廠的位置、聯絡電話及開放時間。

讀後感: 

本書的安排很工整，順序看的話是可以令一個由乜都唔知的人建立到一套關於麥芽威士忌的知識，真是一本好的介紹書。可是仍有一些可斟酌的地方。

在講解歷史時，在頁底的年份事件表真的很好。可是有很多事情有上頁內文沒有提及，讀者便不消楚有關事件對威士忌的發展有什麼影響了。

生產過程那一章節是全書最精彩詳盡的，由他除了一般流程外，亦會提及一技術變數。尤其是我這些在現場看過生產的會對這些技術調節有更深刻的體驗。唯一不足的我只可說是這章的例子不足。可能作者是不想公開某一些蒸餾廠的造酒方法吧。

如果讀者是一個時常出入較正規的品飲場合的話，便一定會覺得 Whisky Tasting 那一章頗沉悶。因為整章與其他品酒書的內容差不多一樣，只是主題由葡萄酒變成威士忌。唯一不同的是在品飲過程中一定要加水。在享受威士忌過程中加水與否是個人喜好，但在品飲試酒過程中，加水卻是一個必須步驟。除此之下外，個人覺得最值得參考的是在第 106 至 107 頁中有關酒味的來源。

酒區介紹那一章完全是描述性，可是地圖顯示略嫌不足。除非很熟識蘇格蘭地理，否則要搵地圖幫手至知道不同酒區的覆蓋範圍。

最後的 Directory 只是一本類似黃頁的章節，好處是每間酒廠都有一點介紹，但他的品酒筆記只紀錄了此酒莊的某一款酒，略為不足。

總的來說，這書是一本資料充實的書。初學者看的話可能須要多一些時間消化，資深酒友看此書亦會有所得著，是一本值得珍藏細讀的酒書。

2002 Bonnes Mares, Domaine de la Vougeraie

A dry red wine with deep ruby colour and fairly high intensity aromas of black cherry, rose, mint, spice, red plum jam and mineral. It has medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. The tannin is stronger than medium level and fine-grained in nature. Medium intensity flavours of red cherry, cabbage, spice with slightly longer than medium length with red cherry finish. (91)


Tasted on 13 July 2013

奇怪，年份不差，葡萄園不差，酒莊不差，但枝酒有著頗吸引之香氣但酒味出奇的弱，落差很大。餘韻也很不錯，只是酒在口的味道完全似一枝中級酒似的。

1998 Valpolicella Sueriore, Dal Forno Romano

This is a deep ruby dry red wine. On nose it has fairly high intensity aromas of raisin, black plum, licorice, dried herb and touch of menthol. Slightly over medium alcohol and fuller than medium bodied with medium acidity, it also has medium fine-grained tannin. The flavour intensity is at medium level, which contains flavours of black plum raisin, dried herb and black tea. Longer than medium length with black plum finish. (90)

Tasted on 27 June 2013

這酒可以比得上一枝普通的AMARONE，有著不錯的香氣及酒味，餘韻又算長，複雜性雖然欠了點但仍有一定的程度，不錯。

參觀威士忌蒸餾廠(三) - The Balvenie

第三間係 Balvenie。其實可能係第三及第四間，因為 Balvenie 同 Glenfiddich 係同一個集團 William Grants & Son，而且在同一個位置，所以它們的部份設施是兩間蒸餾廠共用的。

歷史

William Grant 於1892年建立此蒸餾廠，位置在 Glenfiddich 蒸餾廠隔離。此蒸餾廠位於Dufftown 巿郊的地方。William Grant 之前在另一間蒸餾廠 Montlach 工作，離開後他在近Balvenie Castle 的地方買了一塊地並建立此蒸餾廠，包括 Glenfiddich，所以兩間廠的建立時間很相近（Glenfiddich 是 1887）。

生產過程

如果想清楚地參觀整個生產過程，Balvenie 就是一個必到的地方。因為 Balvenie 蒸餾廠由種麥開始到入樽都是自己一腳踢的。他們在蒸餾廠旁仍擁有自己的麥田，並會用這處種的麥做威士忌。他們也是小數在蒸餾廠內自行把麥發芽及製作，更加是碩果僅存地仍保有自己的木桶工場的蒸餾廠。

在這裡，他們一手一腳，由零開始的生產。產量不多，酒的 Cut 約 30%。同他的兄弟倉Glenfiddich 有所不同。Glenfiddich 生產量大，產品亦較大路及商業化，而 Balvenie 則是走精品路線，志在嘗試不同的造酒方式，所以他們有一隻21年的 Portwood Single Malt，是用存過砵酒的木桶作 Finishing。

酒廠的 Malt Master David Stewart 係一位深受業界敬重的老行專，已有50年經驗。他之前也是 Glenfiddich 的 Malt Master，但現在已退下來，只做 Balvenie 的 Malt Master 了。以下是他的簡介。



試酒方面，除了在試酒室試酒（他們的試酒室是在 Glenfiddich 入面），亦會在酒窖入面嘗試「偷」酒飮，大家亦會知道在酒窖內「放狗」點解，亦有機會用最傳統的酒杯（你隻手）試酒。以下是他們的試酒室。

酒款方面，他們常規生產的有12年、17年、15年單一木桶、21年 Portwood、30年及40年等。

想獲得更多此蒸餾廠資料可以上他們網站  www.thebalvenie.com。他們在 YouTube 亦有Channel，有很多不錯的短片，值得一看。

1995 Castello di Selvole Vin Santo del Chianti Classico

 This sweet wine possesses a medium onion skin colour. The aromas intensity is pronounced with noses of raisin, caramel, apricot, honey and orange. The sweetness level is at medium with medium acidity and bodied. On palate it has medium intensity flavours of raisin, caramel, honey, maple syrup and touch of alcoholic notes. Barely over medium length with orange peel finish. (89)

Tasted on 27 June 2013

很一致的甜酒，香氣強，複雜性一般亦一致。口感複雜性較陘，餘韻也很不錯，我個人較覺得它的酸度差點點，雖不至於令到酒有漿口感，但好相信酸多一點點會好好多。

1988 Pavillon Rouge du Ch. Margaux

Almost deep purple colour with pronounced nose of blackcurrant, herbaceous, earth, licorice and touch of mint and toast. It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. Tannin is at medium level and fine-grained in nature. On palate it has medium intensity flavours of vegetal, blackcurrant, black cherry and touch of licorice. Longer than medium length with black cherry finish. (89) Lack of complexity on palate but good for casual drinking.

Tasted on 27 June 2013

公公整整，香氣複雜性不錯，餘韻及酒力都很好，酒味的複雜性差了點，亦較清楚易明，沒有瑪歌區的一點曖昧，不錯的酒品。

2006 Batard Montrachet, Domaine Blain Gagnard

This wine has medium lemon in colour. It has fairly high intensity noses of lemon, floral, vanilla, cream, mineral and touch of oak and lemon grass. Dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Slightly fuller than medium bodied and over medium intensity flavours of citrus, vanilla, wet stone and touch of grass and mineral. Close to long length with citrus honey finish. (92) Can reach 94 points if there is not a touch of bitterness at the back.

Tasted on 27 June 2013

如果唔計最後那點點苦，這酒的評價會更佳，酒香及酒味力度強勁，複雜性也足，餘韻也頗長，好飲的。

2003 Puligny Montrachet 1er Les Pucelles, Domaine Leflaive

With fairly high intensity aromas of lemon, vanilla, wet stone, white flowers and touch of musk, this dry white wine has medium lemon colour and acidity. Medium alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. The palate gives slightly over medium flavours of citrus, nuttiness, and mineral. Fairly long length with citrus honey finish. (91) Shows layer of flavours but a bit weak, so is the complexity.

Tasted on 27 June 2013

03年的布根地白酒對釀酒師真的是一個挑戰。這酒香氣很不錯，但口感較弱，酒味雖然有一定層次但有些薄，餘韻也不錯，幾好。

參觀威士忌蒸餾廠(二) - Macallan

第二間係出名的蒸餾廠 Macallan。呢個品牌我相信很多人都熟識，由於在室內地方唔準影相（除了在試酒室），所以只有在室外及試酒室影返夠本。

歷史

於 1824 年成立的 Macallan 是其中一間最早獲得牌照運作的蒸餾廠。由一個種麥的教師 Alexander Reid 建立。Macallan 呢個名根據官方網站係由 Magh 及 Ellan 兩個字組成。Magh 係解一片肥沃的土地而 Ellan 乃 St. Fillan，一位在八世紀時蘇格蘭傳教的修士的名字。酒廠於 1868 年被 James Stuart 買下，並於 1892 年轉手至 Roderick Kemp，他被認為是將 Macallan 發揚光大的人。1909 年 Kemp 死後，酒廠由其後人以家族基金形式運作。經過數十年營運後，Highland Distillers PLC 於1996 至 99 年間成為了大股東，但其位置卻於 1999 年後被 Edrington Group 取代。

生產

Macallan 一直堅持他們的生產哲學是來自六大支柱：第一個是他們精神上的家園（Spiritual Home），亦即是大家在酒標上見到的一間小屋（見下圖）。這小屋其實大有名堂的，叫做 East Elchies House，於 1700 年建成，比酒廠的歷史還早。這小屋由 Captain John Grant 建立，他的孫子於 1759 年把它賣了給 Seafield 的伯爵，之後才在 1868 年由 James Stuart 買下，而到 1961 年才由 Macallan 酒廠持有。此小屋翻修及擴建後於 1985 年重開。由於他的歷史價值，而成為了酒廠的標誌物，以下是實物的樣子：

第二個支柱是他們用的小蒸餾壼，其大小是同區（Speyside）內最細的。這樣會令酒與銅的接觸比例提高，而令至酒味較豐富。酒廠共有14個這類蒸餾壼，每個可載約 3900 公升。如果你留意蘇格蘭銀行 10 英鎊紙幣背面，便會看到這細小的蒸餾壺了。

第三個支柱是他們截取新酒的部位，即是所謂的 Cut。Macallan 在截酒方面只截取最優質的部份，只佔整體的 16%，可以是數一數二的小。收集酒精的含量是69.8%，所有其後的產品就是以此量少精純的新酒做成。

第四個支柱相信大家亦會估到了，就是他們木桶的使用。他們會四出找尋優質木桶作陳年之用。常用的包括：西班牙橡木雪利酒桶（Spanish oak sherry cask）、美國橡木雪利酒桶（American oak sherry cask）及美國橡木波班酒桶（American oak bourbon cask）。所以他們有隻酒叫三桶熟成（Triple cask maturation）。

在參觀時他們進一步解釋他們的木桶使用。Macallan 是小數由橡樹開始已經監控他們的木桶來源的酒廠。他們會派人去選購及製造新木桶，之後把新木桶交給雪利酒莊去儲存雪利酒，幾年後才把木桶收回來存放他們的新酒。這樣便可更加保證他們木桶的質量。另外，當酒桶已經不能再作威士忌後，他們會把木桶用作裝水。他們認為先讓水與木桶內殘餘的酒作「溝通」，之後做出來的威士忌會更好。所以他們有一個很大的倉庫存著一桶桶的水。

第五支柱是他們的自然酒色。他們不會在入樽時加色。所有酒的顏色都是來自木桶。最後支柱我個人覺得最「利害」，就是他們的團隊。他們每年會試不同的樣本以達致一致的品質，果然係一份好工。

Macallan 的產量非常驚人。他們會把製成的酒混好後用好像運油車的大貨車運往他們的入樽廠。這入樽廠之大可說是數一數二，每分鐘入酒 600支，一日二十四小時，一年三百六十五日不停運作。

參觀完當然要試酒啦！酒廠安排了我們在 East Elchies House 試酒，一共有 6 個Sample（見下圖）。最左的是剛蒸餾完的新酒，所以是透明無色的。最右的兩杯是 Oscuro 及 1842 Limited Release。

East Elchies House 的試酒室藏著很多年份的威士忌，有些仲很有紀念價值的。