1979 Barolo, Aurelio Settimo

Quite deep ruby colour with medium intensity red berry, tar, mint tea, rose pedal and touch of caramel, it is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. Quite high tannin but coarse. On palate it has slightly over medium intensity flavours of red berry, mint tea, tar, and touch of leather. Fairly long length with red plum finish. (91)


Tasted on 2 December 2016


 陳年的巴洛洛把葡萄的品種特色表露無遺。酒亦有一點陳年感。發展成熟，甚至有點過時，但可飲用，保存得很不錯。酒的強度在口中比香氣強，複雜性仍算好，餘韻亦長，好飲。

2001 Vosne Romanee 1er Cru Cros Parantoux, Domaine Emmanuel Rouget

This dry red wine has deep ruby colour. On nose it has quite high intensity aromas of red plum, licorice, rose perfume, smoke, vanilla, lavender, and strawberry jam. Medium acidity and alcohol, with quite full bodied and medium tannin. On palate, it gives quite high intensity flavours of black plum, black cherry, rose, licorice, lavender and cedar, very spicy. Long length with red plum finish. (94)


Tasted on 2 December 2016

這酒的香味及酒味都強，複雜性更引人入勝，果味及香料味縱橫交錯的，餘韻長，令人回味，酒的香料味很出色，好好飲，但須要慢慢嘆，因為酒味的複雜性會要用一點時間去感受的，一枝絕不簡單的酒。

2013 Nuit St. Georges Aux Lavieres, Domaine Leroy

A deep ruby coloured dry red wine with fairly high intensity aromas of red plum, red berry, licorice, clove and rose perfume. It is dry with medium acidity, medium alcohol and bodied with medium fine grained tannin. The flavour intensity is slightly higher than medium with flavours of red berry, strawberry candy, rose jam, mint and cherry tea. Fairly long length with red berry finish. (92)


Tasted on 2 December 2016


酒有濃濃的香氣和複雜性，單寧有點點青，酒味在口中強度低了點但餘韻頗長，好飲的，在這年份有此表現值得一讚。

2013 Nuits St. George Aux Allot, Domaine Leroy

Deep ruby with quite high intensity noses of bubblegum, red plum, red berry, sweet spice, rose candy, mint and red tea.  It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. Medium fine grained tannin but touch of greenness. On palate it has medium intensity flavours of red berry, wild strawberry, clove, cedar wood and smoke. Slightly longer than medium length with wild strawberry finish. (91)


Tasted on 2 December 2016

以這年份說是可以感受到釀造者的想法，就是盡力做一枝濃濃的酒。酒的醬果感仍在，酒香頗濃，亦有一定複雜性。酒質在入口後令人明白到酒的底蘊，複雜性下降了，餘韻尚算長，可口的酒。

2008 Clos de Vougeot, Domaine Francois Lamarche

This dry red wine has deep ruby colour. On nose it gives close to pronounced level intensity aromas of rose, red plum, red berry jam, licorice spice, clove, and trace of earth and graphite. Slightly acidic with medium alcohol and quite full bodied. Medium fine grained tannin and medium intensity flavours of red plum, red berry, spice, black tea. Fairly long length with red plum juice finish. (92)


Tasted on 26 November 2016


污槽永遠都給人可口的感覺，四四正正的，這枝也是。合適的香氣組合，頗長的餘韻，說出這酒有一定質素。酒味在口中強度少了點，酒可能還須陳年，酸度比正常的高了點點，如不是狀態問題的話，過多幾年會更好。

1997 Ch. Palmer

Deep purple with close to pronounced level noses of blackcurrant, earth, violet, licorice, black plum, fig and dried blackberry, quite fruity. It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and quite full bodied. Tannin is quite high and a bit coarse. On palate it has slightly over medium intensity flavours of blackcurrant, bell pepper, licoirce, dried herb and earth. Fairly long length with blackberry finish. (91)


Tasted on 26 November 2016

果香豐富得有點令我出奇，酒體也很豐厚，口感滿滿的，只是單寧有點點"鞋"口。酒味的強度與複雜性也不錯，餘韻亦算長，幾好飲。這酒莊在較差的年份往往造出令人印象深刻的酒，包括這枝。

1976 Ch. Haut Brion

This dry red wine still have quite deep purple colour, with a garnet rim. On nose it has close to pronounced level aromas of blackcurrant, licorice, black cherry, violet, toast and touch of mint tea, quite fresh indeed. Medium acidity and alcohol with fuller than medium bodied. The tannin is at barely medium level, touch of greenness is detected. Slightly over medium intensity flavours of black cherry, licorice, earth, and touch of leather. Fairly long length with black cherry finish. (91) Fading but still fresh.

Tasted on 26 November 2016

酒香仍有一定鮮果感，很難得。發展成熟，甚至有下坡的狀態。香氣仍然很出色，酒味雖不及香氣那麼好但仍很不錯，餘韻亦長，是一枝好喝的酒品，但不建議再陳年了。

酒、尋、謎 (二十)

二十．

「這詩可以用在品酒筆記中的字可多了。」天娜說：「第二段根本就像形容一支酒一樣。Rose、Currant、Raspberry、Goutweed、Rhubarb、Celery⋯⋯，這些字眼很多時都會用在形容酒的香氣上。」

 「是的。」謝夫回應著：「不同的葡萄品種很多時都會有著其特色的香氣，雖然仍有一些沒有特色的味道，例如：Chardonnay。」

「但要找出跟這些形容詞完全相同的也要一番功夫啊！」

「其實也不一定要完全相同的。要知道這些香氣的形容詞也是由聯想而來的，不同品種的葡萄酒造出來的香氣令人想起不同的東西，有些葡萄品種更會造出一些標誌性的味道，所以由氣味或味道去推斷葡萄品種時要特別留意。第一，葡萄品種造酒後一般都有一個味道的範圍，之後再受環境、釀造方法、陳年等因素影響；第二，同一樣的酒，不同人會試出不同味，同一個人在不同時間亦會試出不同味，因為這些都是聯想出來的。但同時間，有些葡萄品種又有著一些獨特的氣味，令人很容易辨別出來，例如在南非出名的 Pinotage 便有著它獨有的燒塑膠的味道。」謝夫解說著。

「嗯，那即是說我們不用找到完全配對的，而是氣味範圍一樣的，對嗎？」天娜問。

「對，你看看這六個字：Rose 是花香味；Currant 和 Raspberry 是果味，嚴格來說是紅色果實味，再縮小範圍說是紅莓類的味道；Goutweed、Rhubarb、Celery 就是一些較草本的味道。所以，這六個形容詞其實可以簡化成 Floral、Berry、Vegetal 三個範疇的味道。」

「是啊！但這樣便有較多品種符合了。」天娜說。

「是的，但這是必須行的第一步，之後才縮窄範圍。有些自詡專家的往往只因一種氣味便立即下判斷，這樣很多時也會錯誤，好運的話在品飲過程中會發現自己判斷錯誤，更甚的是由於自己已作判斷，之後在品飲時腦海中已朝著自己判斷的方向去想，之後的所有聯想便因自己太早下的錯誤判斷而一直錯下去。」

「對啊！這是自我應驗效果。」

「嘿！是的！特別是葡萄酒的品飲是一件個人感覺判斷的事，所以很易落入 self fulfilling 的情況。」謝夫續說：「縮小範圍後，我們便要由較細緻的情況下手⋯⋯」

「例如是什麼？」天娜已經急著的插問。

「就是每一類味道的範圍內的傾向或定位。就像剛剛說的，Currant 和 Raspberry 是紅色果實味一樣。試想想，紅色果實本身也是一個範圍來的。例如 Plum ，中文叫布冧，我們通常見到的有青布冧、紅布冧和黑布冧。有些酒的香氣有著布冧氣味時，再細緻一點便是要指出是那種顏色的布冧⋯⋯」

「因為不同顏色有助指出果味的成熟度，從而推斷産地的氣候。」天娜接著說。

「對。」謝夫續說：「除了花果香外，草本的味道也是值得留意的。有時這些是來自葡萄品種本身，有些是來自陳年之後的演變。例如 Cabernet Sauvignon，這品種被稱為有著標誌性的黒加侖子味，但隨著陳年之後，味道會轉換成青色的燈籠椒一樣。」

「但這裡所指的應該是品種本身吧！因為這些字所提示的應該是在同一個時間點上。」天娜說。

「唔！我也同意這個觀點的。此外，第三段還有 Smoke、Dark Earth 等字眼，而第一段則有 Dead Leaves 和應著土地的特色。相信你應該想到是那個地方了。」謝夫笑說。

「嗯。兜兜轉轉，這個謎題的解答地方原來近在眼前⋯⋯」天娜續說：「那麼，我們出發吧！」

2003 Corton Charlemagne, Domaine Henri Boillot

Medium lemon green colour with pronounced level aromas of lemon, mineral, white flower, honey toast and touch of walnut. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Quite full bodied and over medium flavour intensity. The flavours contain lemon, mineral, wet stone, ripe pear and touch of honey. Fairly long length with honey lemon finish. (92)


Tasted on 26 November 2016


酒香強勁，又有一定複雜性，口感豐滿但略為重了點點。酒味在口中跟酒香很一致，餘韻算長，幾好飲。個人覺得如果酸度高一點可能會更好，這酒的活力似乎少了點。

2013 Meursault, Domaine Henri Boillot

A medium lemon green colour dry white wine with quite high noses of lemon, cream, butter, white flower, vanilla and touch of limestone and mineral. Medium acidity, alcohol and full bodied. On palate it has over medium intensity flavour of lemon, honey, cream and mineral. Barely over medium length with honey lemon finish. (89)


Tasted on 26 November 2016


香氣不錯，算強，亦有一定複雜性，也展現到田土特性。酒味在口中簡單直接了很多，香味仍算不錯，餘韻合格。一枝很不錯的餐酒，以這年份算OK了。

1979 Glenfarclas Family Cask Single Malt Whisky

Medium gold in colour with quite high intensity aromas of malt, honey, lemon peel, cinnamon, sawdust and ginger. Water gives our tropical fruit aroma. It is dry with medium acidity, higher than medium alcohol but well integrated. Quite full bodied with over medium intensity flavours. of lemon peel, honey, ginger, sawdust and vanilla. Long length with honey citrus finish. (94)


Tasted on 24 November 2016

 這酒的陳年感很不錯，飲時是感受到酒從木桶中提取了很多味道似的。酒香及酒味的強度和複雜性也是中上水平，餘韻很長，令人回味。好飲。這酒可以說是
REFILL SHERRY CASK 的一個很好的例子。

2005 Opus One

A dark purple colour dry red wine with pronounced aromas of blackcurrant, black plum, dried black cherry, prune, pine, licorice and touch of bell pepper and anise. Medium acidity and alcohol, full bodied with quite high fine grained tannin. On palate, it has quite high intensity flavours of blackcurrant, vegetal, black plum, mint, licorice and earth. Long length with black cherry finish. (94)


Tasted on 24 November 2016

完全展現美國酒的那種溫熱熟果香，酒濃烈得很，果味很重，單寧亦重，這種強度一直伸延至酒味，也是濃濃厚厚，餘韻亦長。整體濃烈感很強，相信仍有一定陳放時間。酒會是很不錯的，好好飲。

2009 Ch. Lafite Rothschild

This dry red wine has dark purple colour. On nose it has pronounced level aromas of blackcurrant, black plum, graphite, pencil shaving, sandalwood, licorice, cedar and spice. Medium acidity, alcohol and full bodied. Tannin level is quite high but ripe and fine grained. On palate it gives quite high intensity flavours of black plum, blackberry, licorice, pencil shaving, pine wood, cedar and touch of earth and smoke. Long length with black plum finish. (96)


Tasted on 24 November 2016


 極深的顏色加漿果主導的味道，說明這酒的濃度很高。酒的香氣強烈，複雜性在發展中，令人期待。口感豐滿，單寧強但成熟，酒味亦強而有一定複雜，餘韻悠長。這些表現完全是好酒一枝，但仍須發展一下，潛質令人期待。這酒比想像中較啱飲，但陳多些時間可能會更好。