2013 Vosne Romanee, Domaine Georges Noellat

Deep ruby colour with a touch of haziness. On nose it has quite high intensity strawberry, banana, rose pedal, vanilla, licorice, spice box and touch of dried plum. It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. The palate has medium flavours of red plum, red cherry, earth, dried herb and touch of dried rose. Medium soft tannin with touch of stalky and longer than medium length, red berry finish. (90) Surprisingly concentrated and ripe.


Tasted on 19 February 2017

2013年的酒本來無甚麼期望，因為知道年份不太好。可是這酒說出在弱年份也有很不錯的酒。酒的果味算濃，但亦有一定複雜性，餘韻也不錯，酒味在口中弱了些，但這是預期之內的。難得仍可有這偏醬的果香，不錯的村酒，也顯示到釀造者的功力。

2010 Ch. Grand Puy Lacoste

Deep purple coloured with quite high noses of black plum, black cherry, violet, mint leaves, licorice, vanilla and touch of earth. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol, quite full bodied with medium ripe and fine grained tannin. On palate, it has medium intensity flavours of black cherry, earth, blueberry and touch of licorice and dried herb. Fairly long length with blueberry finish. (90)


Tasted on 10 February 2017


酒香強，亦有一定複雜性，酒味在口中的強度低了點，餘韻算長。酒的結構硬淨，有齊可以發展成靚酒的元素，放多幾年可能更好飲。

1994 Schloss Lieser Niederberg Helden Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese

This sweet wine has medium intensity orange colour. On nose it has medium noses of orange peel, honey, apricot, steel, wet stone and petrol. High acidity and full bodied with less than medium alcohol, it has quite high intensity flavours of peach, dried apricot and honey on palate and fairly long honey lemon length. (93) Still acidic but good ageing potential, a bit lack of complexity.


Tasted on 10 February 2017

這酒酸度很高，有點削。酒香不強但複雜性很好。可是入口後複雜性下降了不少，餘韻算長，放多十年應該更好飲的。

酒、尋、謎 (二十一)

二十一．

謝夫坐在天娜家的房車，在公路奔馳著。沿著路旁的火車鐡道上剛巧有一列高速鐵路駛過。

「兜兜轉轉，又一次沿著這路線出動。」謝夫呆望著那列高鐵，腦海中想到幾個月前曾經因為協助警方解決一宗疑似綁架案而坐在那列火車的情形。

「只是今天的目的地有所不同。」謝夫心想。

在車箱內坐在謝夫旁的天娜亦靜靜的看著她那邊車窗外的風景。謝夫續想：「估不到這次的目的地是那麼近。」

車子遠離火車軌轉入了 A6 公路，司機加速的駕駛著，像要以最短時間把這段一般須要三小時的車程行完。

「法國的高速公路比香港的有意思得多了，沒有太多的車，也沒有人刻意超速。」謝夫打開話匣子的跟天娜說著。

「對，法國人的駕駛態度尚算可以吧！」天娜答。

謝夫說：「比起亞州好得多了。有人曾對我說過臺灣的交通燈只是用來參考的，在中國大陸更不用說，基本上你在大陸能安全駕駛的話，這個世界沒有地方你是不能駕駛了。」

說著說著，車子已駛過了 Chablis 及 Auxerre 兩個城市。

「遠在天邊，近在眼前。」天娜說：「想不到第一道謎題要你遠去日本，第二道謎題居然是在我酒莊附近。」

「嘿，我也想不到原來一首英國人的詩可以與一隻葡萄品種連結起來。」謝夫回應著。

「Pinot Noir，這種皮薄細密、因生長得像是松果一樣而得名的葡萄，所造出來的酒充滿花果香。花香方面也傾向玫瑰的香氣，而果香方面亦主要有著紅莓、櫻桃、紅醋栗，再加上這花果味的方向偏向鲜爽和帶有野生的風格，與及其點點像生椰菜的草青特色，真是符合詩文的內容。」天娜說。

謝夫看著車窗外說：「布根地，每次我來到也有一種朝聖的感覺。漂亮的風景和複雜的土壤和氣候，再加上歷史的演變，做成今天布根地的特色。即使主要是單一葡萄品種，造出來的酒亦千變萬化。」

布根地，英文是 Burgundy，法文叫 Bourgogne。其實 Bourgogne 亦是布根地酒區坐落的省份名字，一般對布根地酒有認識的人都會知道布根地酒區分了五部份：Chablis、Cote d'Or、Chalonnaise、Maconnais 及 Beaujolais。但要留意的是，其實 Beaujolais 是不在 Bourgogne 這個省的，所以在地理和行政上 Beaujolais 並不是在 Bourgogne，只是因這區的酒的歷史關係而歸入布根地酒區。

車子在進入布根地酒區主要城市伯恩市 (Beaune），謝夫與天娜步出車子，在他們兩邊的一大片依山坡而植的葡萄園，便是釀造出舉世聞名的布根地葡萄酒的精華地段——金丘區 (Côte d'Or)。

2002 Clos De La Roche, Domaine Ponsot

Barely deep intensity ruby colour with quite pronounced nose of dried rose, black plum, dried redberry, strawberry jam, vanilla, licorice and touch of damp earth. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol, fuller than medium bodied and smooth medium tannin. On palate it gives quite high intensity flavours of red plum, rose, licoirce, earth and dried red cherry. Fairly long length with red plum finish. (94) Good minerality.

Tasted on 10 February 2017

這酒會令 人置身於一間花農之家一樣。花果味很強，而且是乾花醬果的感覺，不太鮮爽，但濃郁。酒身順滑柔和，但有豐富口感。更可喜的是酒底有綿長的礦物感承托著，好酒，做得好，令人回味。

2009 Clos Saint Denis, Georges Lignier et Fils

A deep ruby wine with medium intensity aromas of red plum, dried rose, dried red cherry, mint, vanilla and touch of nutmeg, it is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. Medium soft tannin too. On palate it has quite high intensity flavours of rose, red berry, red plum, licorice, vanilla, earth and touch of smoke. Fairly long length with red plum finish. (92)


Tasted on 10 February 2017


這酒的香氣不強，但入口後酒味才較明顯的展現。酒香複雜性不錯，口感柔順，酒味在口中強度反而更強，複雜性亦維持著，餘韻算長。整體來說，酒在口的表現比酒香好。相信過多幾年會仲好飲。

1983 Ch. Leoville Las Cases

This dry red wine has deep purple colour with quite high intensity of blackcurrant, green bell pepper, violet, mint, licorice and touch of tobacco and cedar. It has medium acidity, alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. The tannin is fine grained at medium level with over medium intensity flavours of blackcurrant, green bell pepper, licorice, cigar leaf. Fairly long length with blackcurrant finish. (92)


Tasted on 10 February 2017

34年酒仍保持著這樣的濃度已經值得一讚。酒香強而發展成熟，有一定複雜性。酒的表現在口中保持一致，餘韻算長，好好飲。酒的表現相信已沒甚麼空間發展，現飲一流，正。

2006 Chambolle Musigny, Domaine Comte Georges de Vouge

A deep ruby dry red wine with pronounced noses of rose perfume, black plum, blackberry, licorice, cedar, earth and touch of cabbage. Medium acidity, alcohol and quite full bodied. The tannin is at medium level and fine grained. On palate it gives higher than medium intensity flavours of red cherry, red plum, earth, licorice and touch of dust. Fairly long length with red plum finish. (92) Just because of nose.


Tasted on 26 January 2017

 酒的香氣很好，又強又複雜，但香氣是偏向濃香的。酒體豐滿的，單寧不算太順滑，但不至於鞋口。酒味力度及複雜性有些下降，餘韻算長，是一枝造得很濃郁的酒，但不太反映到田土特色。因為酒香我加了點分，但整體來說仍是一枝很不錯的酒品。

2012 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Les Pucelles, Domaine Leflaive

Medium lemon coloured with close to pronounced level aromas of lemon, floral, mineral, honeyed almond, vanilla and touch of oak and amber, it is dry with medium acidity, medium alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. On palate it has over medium flavours of lemon, floral, mineral, vanilla and touch of amber. Fairly long length with lemon finish. (92)

Tasted on 26 January 2017

早飲了一點，酒的強度不錯，複雜性仍特發展，但酒的成份已具備。酒味的複雜性比酒香差些，預計將來可能也是一樣。現在飲比較鮮爽一點，過多四五年再試吧。

Talisker 175th Anniversary Single Malt Whisky

This whisky has medium intensity gold colour. The aromas intensity is quite high with aromas of honey, malt, toasted vanilla, iodine, lemon candy and smoke. Water brings out more peaty notes. Dry with medium acidity, well integrated medium alcohol, quite full bodied with medium intensity flavours of lemon, honey, tropical fruit and touch of smoke, peat and iodine. Fairly long length with honey lemon finish. (91)

Tasted on 29 January 2017

酒香強度不錯而有一定複雜性。加水反而增加泥煤味。酒在口中強度不及酒香，複雜亦不降了，餘韻算長。一枝中上表現的威士忌。 泥煤濃度不算太強，各類味道的平衡不錯，幾好飲。

1958 Giacomo Conterno Monfortino, Barolo Riserva

This wine still has medium ruby colour, with a touch of haziness. The aromas is so intense and complex that it has dried herbs, road tar, mint, rose tea, tree barks, leather and trace of sour cherry. It is dry with barely medium acidity, barely medium bodied and barely medium alcohol. The tannin is fine grained in nature at medium level. On palate it gives quite high intensity red cherry, licorice, spice box, British tea, leather and traces of dried rose and tar. Long length. (93) I wish I could meet him 10 years ago.


Tasted on 7 January 2017

有些酒是會說故事的，像藝術品，這枝是一個例子。近六十年的歷史，這酒像一個步入老年的人在說故事。強烈的酒香說著他自己的發展過程，好像由花果香開始一路發展至陳酒的皮革味的整個故事。酒在口中的表現說著這酒步入老年了，平衡度仍在，但在苦苦支撐的，酒味的強度仍在，餘韻悠長，表現出它本身優秀的質素。酒體在口中鬆散了些，但畢竟已有這年歲。如果早十年飲相信會是一枝傳奇。

1989 Barolo, Francesco Rinaldi & Figli

This dry red wine has quite deep intensity ruby colour. On nose it gives quite high intensity aromas of red plum, red cherry, rose, mint, anise and licorice. Medium acidity and alcohol, with medium bodied and quite high fine grained tannin. On palate it has medium intensity flavours of red plum, red berry, earth and touch of licorice and mint. Slightly longer than medium length with red plum finish. (90)


Tasted on 7 January 2017

酒香不錯，也反映到品種特色。酒的整體表現中上，四四正正的，酒味不及酒香的強。餘韻也不錯。 是可口的一枝酒，佐餐一流的。

1974 Barolo Granbussia, Aldo Conterno

A medium ruby coloured dry red wine with medium intensity aromas of red plum, black cherry, mint, anise, and asphalt. Medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with ripe and fine grained medium tannin. The flavour intensity is quite high with flavours of red cherry, mint tea, rose and vegetal notes. Fairly long length with red berry finish. (92)



Tasted on 7 January 2017

 四十多年的酒仍有這種熟果感已經值得一讚。合適強度的酒香有著合理的複雜性和品種特色，好。酒味在口中反而更強，但複雜性又反而低了，餘韻亦長，好飲的。這酒由倒酒落杯至吞下的表現很不一致，很得意，但幾享受這品飲過程。