1969 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva, Biondi Santi

This dry red wine has deep ruby colour. On nose it gives higher than medium intensity aromas of prune, caramel, raisin, black tea and damp wood. Fairly high acidity, medium bodied with barely medium alcohol. Medium fine grained tannin too. On palate it has slightly higher than medium flavours of stewed red cherry, caramel, British tea, damp wood. Fairly long length with sour cherry finish. (90)



Tasted on 16 November 2015


有相逄恨晚的感覺，這酒如果早幾年飲應該很不錯。酒已走下坡了，有著氧化的味道，酒的酸度亦已有點醋化，酒味複雜性失去不少，酒精感亦下降。但我仍比一個不俗的評價。原因有三: 一)酒主說這酒有點輕微滲漏，所以相信在正常狀態下會比這支好; 二)酒的餘韻及強度顯示了這酒的質素; 三)四十多年的酒在輕微滲漏下的老化情度也只是如此，足証這酒有很強的生命力。酒仍有品種特性，香氣仍吸引，只是酒在口中表現平淡鬆散了。正常的狀態應該會好飲的。

酒鬼的讀書報告 (7) - The Finest Wines of Burgundy

書名: The Finest Wines of Burgundy

編者: Bill Nanson

版本: 2012年 


書籍簡介: 


全書 320 頁，包括頭 5 頁 的 CONTENTS 及 PREFACE 和尾 3 頁的 Index。 內文方面，全書分開了幾個部份。分別為：

1. Introduction：這一部分共分七個章節：第一章介绍了金丘區(Côte d'Or)的地理；第二章談了一些關於布根地的歴史；第三章簡單的解釋了這個法定產區(Appellation)的階梯及級別；第四章是關於布根地主要種植的葡萄品種-黑皮諾和莎當妮；第五章說的是葡萄的種植；之后的第六章便是釀酒法；最后的第七章是說一些品飲時的事項，包括品飲時間、氧化及一些年份特性介绍；

2. The Finest Producers and Their Wines：這部份只有兩個章節，但卻是這書最大篇幅的部分，共佔約270頁。每一個章節介绍了金丘區的一個部分，先是夜丘區(Côte de Nuits)，跟着的是布恩丘(Côte de Beaune)。每一章也是從北至南介绍區內的各條村莊，之后的篇幅是一系列的酒莊介紹，每個酒莊都有一些背景介紹，包括聯絡地址電話，另外作者也有一些他認爲的酒莊出色酒品。

3. Appreciating the Wines：這部分只有一個章節，共2頁。這章推介了作者認爲布根地最好的一百。這處共分十個條目，每個條目推介十項。條目包括：夜丘特級酒、夜丘一級酒、夜丘村酒、布恩丘特級酒、布恩丘一級酒、布恩丘村酒、最佳酒莊、最佳釀造者、最佳價值酒和最佳懂得英語的酒莊探訪。

4. Glossary：只有一頁多的部分，是介紹書中出現過的術語；

 之後到附錄 Bibliography，由第 317 頁開始，Index 則由第 338 頁開始。


讀後感: 

本書的安排很尚算簡潔工整，只是覆蓋面較少，只有金丘區的介紹。

酒莊介紹方面，大多數都有酒莊負責人的彩色照片 ，此外每篇會介紹酒莊葡萄園的位置及大小，亦有一些歷史或釀造特色介紹，頗精單。介紹後部份還會列出酒莊的聯絡資料，更有一一欄介紹作者認為該酒莊出名的酒品。

酒莊介紹方面雖然不少，差不多包括了所有名莊，但一些在行業有一定份量的老牌酒莊卻欠缺了，例如: HENRI GOUGES。在介紹酒莊特色酒款方面，我相信很多酒莊會對作者的介紹有異議，不論是在酒莊介紹部份或最後的所謂最好100。

總的來說，這書是一本像黃頁的酒莊介紹書。一些對布垠地有初步認識者看的話會有多一些認識，資深酒友看此書會有多一點的酒莊資料，但可能會略嫌簡單，是一本可以一看的酒書。

1999 Richebourg, Christian Remoissenet

Deep ruby colour with quite strong noses of red plum jam, mint tea, vanilla, rose jam and touch of stewed cabbage and earth, it is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and soft ripe tannin. Quite full bodied with fairly high intensity flavours of rose, red plum, strawberry, red cherry jam, vanilla, licorice and toast. Fairly long length with red plum jam finish. (93) Quite jammy, need good serving.



Tasted on 13 November 2015

已是第三次飲這酒了。發覺這酒的透氣時間是一個關鍵。今次只透了一個小時左右，酒香強勁複雜，餘韻亦長，單寧順滑成熟。再透氣多一點後表現更好，但要注意，這酒開瓶約四小時後開始下跌，所以要好好掌握品飲時間。好飲的，只恨我得返最後一枝.....

2010 Ch. Malartic Lagraviere Blanc

This dry wine has medium intensity lemon green colour. On nose it gives quite high intensity aromas of guava, honeysuckle, white flower, vanilla, toast and touch of honeydew. Slightly higher than medium acidity, medium alcohol and fuller than medium bodied. On palate it has slightly higher than medium intensity flavours of lemon, honeysuckle, vanilla, grass and touch of pear. Close to long length with lemon guava fruity finish. (93)



Tasted on 15 November 2015


這波爾多白酒的質量不差於那些五大的白酒。強勁複雜的香氣，亦充分展示出產地和品種的特色，餘韻長而吸引，令人回味。酒味在口中複雜性少了點點，但已經好好飲了。現在飲酸度多了點點，但佐餐的話是完美的，否則可以陳多幾年。愛鮮爽的朋友已可開始飲了。又一物值非凡之選。

2004 Bollinger La Grande Annee

Medium lemon green colour with close to pronounced level intensity aromas of ripe red apple, yeast, honey toast, peach jam and touch of chalk. It is dry with slightly over medium soft acidity, medium alcohol and quite full bodied. Fine bubbles and creamy mousse. Quite high flavour intensity with flavours of lemon, apple pie, yeast, together with touch of chalk and vanilla. Fairly long length with lemon candy finish. (93)


Tasted on 13 November 2015


2004年的香檳好啱飲，仲好飲添。酒香強勁複雜， 果味與二次發酵的香氣共冶一爐，口感豐厚又不會膩，餘韻頗長。酒味在口中也有一定強烈，只是複雜性不及酒香那麼好。性價比很高的一款酒。酒仍可發展，但較喜歡果感的朋友現在飲已經很好了。喜愛多一點老酒特性的朋友可能須要陳多些時間。

2004 Ch. Ducru Beaucaillou

Deep purple colour with fairly high intensity noses of blackcurrant, vegetal, black plum, toast, violet and touch of earth and mint. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Quit full bodied with  medium fine grained tannin, touch of greenness is detected. The flavours, at slightly higher than medium intensity, contain black plum, blackcurrant, black berry, licorice, earth and touch of smoke. Medium length with black plum finish. (91)



Tasted on 3 November 2015

酒香複雜性很好，足証這酒莊的水準穩定。酒力算強，酒味在口中果感十足，只是餘韻比較短了些，單寧有丁點青但影響不大 。整體來說是一枝可口的酒。誰說道姑是木桶水??

2008 Clos Vougeot, Olivier Bernstein

A deep ruby colour dry red wine with fairly high intensity aromas of red plum, cabbage, toast, earth, sweet spice and rose jam. It has medium acidity, alcohol and bodied with medium soft tannin. The flavour intensity is at higher than medium with flavours of rose pedal, red plum, redberry and touch of tea and licorice. Slightly longer than medium length with red plum finish. (92)


Tasted on 3 November 2015

 頗濃郁的一款酒。全程都表現出高於平均的酒香和酒味，餘韻亦算長。酒香複雜性比酒味好，單寧很柔，值得一讚，好飲的，但這酒須要多一點透氣時間。

2000 Puligny Montrachet 1er Champs Canet, Domaine Ramonet

This dry white wine has medium intensity lemon colour. On nose it gives higher than medium aromas of stewed lemon, honey, hay and chamomile, sign of tiredness detected. It has medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. On palate it has slightly higher than medium intensity flavours of honey, lemon, stewed apple and touch of hay and grassy. Longer than medium length with lemon tea finish. (90)



Tasted on 3 November 2015

有點老態的感覺。酒已發展出一些成 熟的氣味，酒的力度及複雜性也算中上，餘韻亦算長，有的話應該要飲了。此酒莊一級田以下的酒跟他們的特級莊在質素上分別很大，這亦可能在價錢上反映了出來。

2005 Meursualt 1er Les Poruzots, Domaine Henri Boillot

Medium lemon colour with higher than medium intensity aromas of lemon, Yakult, cream and touch of honey, quite fruity. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol. Slightly fuller than medium bodied with over medium intensity flavours of lemon, cream, grapefruit and touch of vanilla. Longer than medium length with lemony finish. (92)


Tasted on 3 November 2015


早飲了的酒，果感十足的。酒香及酒味都較強，亦有梅索村的特色。複雜性仍待發展，餘韻算長，幾好飲。2005年不愧係一個靚年。

1998 Ch. Haut Brion

Deep purple coloured dry red wine with barely pronounced intensity aromas of blackcurrant, warm brick, black berry, sweet licorice and touch of mint and plum. Medium acidity and alcohol with quite full bodied and medium soft ripe tannin. On palate it gives slightly over medium intensity flavours of blackcurrant, blackberry, licorice, plum and some dusty and earthy notes. Longer than medium length with blackberry finish. (93)


Tasted on 31 October 2015

以奧比安來說這枝算合格有餘。酒香及酒味也有著地區風格，酒力強度不錯，特別是香氣，複雜性在口中單調了一點點。好飲的，保持著酒莊的水準，但不會有驚喜。

(抱歉: 由於些酒是在某一大形埸合斟來給我的，所以我拍不到照。)

Remy Martin Louis XIII (70s)

This Cognac has medium intensity amber colour. On nose it has quite high intensity aromas of raisin, apricot, caramel, jasmine and hints of citrus peel and chalk. Water brings out sweet spice notes. Some sweet tinge and medium well integrated smooth alcohol. Medium acidity and quite full bodied. On palate it gives fairly high intensity flavours of raisin, apricot, caramel, honey and touch of chalk and orange peel. Close to long length with raisin fruity finish. (94)



Tasted on 24 October 2015

七十年代的路易十三在飲之前有點擔心酒會太老。聞酒香時這份擔心已一掃而空。酒除了展示了它十足的陳年感外，仍有著一定的花果香氣和大香檳區的特性。酒味醇厚，香氣足，口感豐富而又柔順，餘韻長，隱隱約約的。但亦說回來，我相信如果我早幾年飲，我會比更高的評價。以酒的發展來說我相信這酒剛剛過了高峰，所以現在好飲了。或者現在可以試試八十年代的就會更清楚。

2011 Neudorf Moutere Chardonnay

This wine has medium intensity lemon colour. On nose it has medium intensity toast, lemon, roasted nuts, peach and oak. It is dry with medium acidity and alcohol, quite full bodied with over medium flavour intensity. The flavours contain toasted nuts, lemon, floral and touch of peach. Medium length with lemon and nutty finish. (91)



Tasted on 16 October 2015


清晰的酒味，不俗的 強度，濃烈的新世界風格，這酒果感及木桶的平衡很好。入吸豐豐滿滿的，幾好飲。複雜度欠了些，但以佐餐來說很不錯。

2011 Puligny Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon, Domaine Leflaive

A medium lemon green coloured dry white wine with fairly high intensity aromas of lemon. amber, almond, white flower, oak and touch of peach. It is dry with medium acidity, alcohol and bodied. On palate it gives slightly higher than medium intensity flavours of lemon juice, floral, bitter almond and touch of honey. Medium length. (90)



Tasted on 16 October 2015


這酒莊的酒我一直都十分喜愛，但今次有點點失望。希望時間可以幫助一下。酒的強度算不錯了，酒味的複雜性仍在發展，特別是在口中的表現，似乎要多一點時間，餘韻只是勉強合格，雖然今次是開來測試水平，但也有點點期望的，難道我期望過高? 或者一兩年後再試會更好。